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Hallo

Ich habe Probleme mit einem Zero88 ID1216 Dimmer.

 

Fehlercode: 358@7184:--:-- ( die letzten Stellen laufen weiter wie bei einer Uhr)

 

Ich könnte mir vorstellen das 7184:-:- die Betriebsstunden sind?

 

Problem bei dem Dimmer - er merkt sich die Einstellungen nicht mehr.

Bei längerer Standzeit (ohne Strom) verliert er den Speicher.

Also er steht wieder auf Englisch/ Kanäle 1 - 12 etc pp

 

Die Batterie auf der einen Platine wurde schon getauscht.

 

Wer kann helfen?

 

Wer hat einen zum Schlachten wo dieses Problem nicht auftritt?

 

Danke und liebe Grüße vom Bodensee

Shara

 

PS: Es blinkt auch immer die Meldung: Running Cold / Fan is forced ON (Kaltbetrieb / Lüfter geschaltet) - dies bekomme ich auch nicht mehr weg und war vorher nicht da.

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From what you have given I think the issue is still to do with the battery or the connections from the battery to the rest of the circuit.

What condition was the battery in when you replaced it.

Was there any signs of it having leaked onto the PCB or signs of corrosion around the area.

If yes then it may have damaged the tracks on the PCB which explains why the unit is reporting errors and will not hold it’s settings.

This may also explain the fan forced on running cold option but this may also be a failed or damaged connection to one of the temperature sensors so it is now reading 0 all the time.

Due to the units assembly it is very difficult to work on this, I would recommend that it is looked at by a qualified service engineer.

I can recommend Connect for this, my contact is Markus you can obtain further detail from www.connect-lichtservice.de

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Hi there,

I have an ID1216 (3-phase input) dimmer that has not been used for some time.

I tested it today for a gig, but it failed with an error message that the Triac cards could not be detected, and a message that the fan was set to 'On' (it was running) when the unit was running cold.

Set the dimmer levels to the 50% and 90% levels with the menu on a few channels but nothing happening.

 

Any ideas? (though I suspect it will not be a quick fix!)

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Ian

 

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First port of call - if you've not had it done - is to replace the battery on the processor card and see what the rack does then.

 

So much of the internal workings of the processor on the ID's rely on the battery backed internal RAM that if the battery fails, the RAM gets corrupted and the onboard processors get confused. It's a relatively simple job to do for a Zero88 repair centre - the only issue may be if the battery has leaked and begun to eat the PCB it's mounted on.

 

A phone call to Keith at Zero should get you the name and phone number for the nearest Zero repair for you that can handle the repair.

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As Mr Knight has said, I would look at the battery to start with certainly if it has been sat around for a while.

 

PM me on the address below if you need more information.

 

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I have stripped the dimmer down, and sure enough the battery has expired and leaked onto the board.

I have de-soldered and need to clean up the muck left behind. The pcb tracks look ok superficially, but I need to clean up first before I can check.
Any suggestions as to what to use for this cleaning job, so as not to damage the pcb or tracks?

 

Also, if the RAM has reset then is there any way I can get a new chip for this box?

 

Many thanks.

 

Ian

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I use a combination of IsoProp Alcohol and a flux remover - that tends to move most gunk.

 

The RAM should re-initialise when you power the unit and do a rest & boot from Super User. Whilst you're cleaning the board - check the through hole plates around the battery - they might have been corroded and dissolved by the battery leak.

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Many thanks for that Ian.
Yes, it would appear that one of the through-holes has corroded badly, so that one of the pads popped off attached to the battery pin, even though I used proper de-soldering kit.
Is it a multilayer board or just double-sided?

 

Thanks.

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It's just a double sided PCB - the design is from long before the R&D guys got they're heads around multi layer.

 

Just use some thin insulated wire to bridge around break and just be careful of the insulation melting on the wire as you solder it.

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Thanks Ian, that's great.
Will start work on it this weekend, and will let you know how I get on.
Many, many thanks for your excellent, generous support.

 

Ian

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Hello, I m coming because I have a problem with my Zero 88 ID 1216.

All the acid from de battery as out and I have repaired the necessary but now, when I turn on the ZERO 88, I have this message "TOTAL OVER HEAT. DIMMER SHUT DOWN".

Before the remplacement of the battery and the others littles components, the lcd is not working, now it's ok.

 

I think the problem is with the temp control because, the zero88 is cold, not hot!

 

My question: Can you tell me where is the PTC or the thermistors for the control of temp? I don't see it!

 

I don't have the service manual for that! Can you help me?

 

Ps: I hope you understand my english... ;)

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Check the molex connectors on the processor board - the cables not sheathed in grey sleeving - sometimes the cables work out of the IDC teeth and don't make contact. The usual culprits are the small 3 way connectors toward the bottom of the card - it's rarely the sensors that fail.

 

Also - take care that you clamp the voltage regulators back in place when replace the processor card - if not clamped, they can cause a false overheat condition.

 

I would suspect though that if the LCD wasn't working and now is - that the mainboard has more damage from the leaking acid than you can see - usually it's the tracks that run under chips that corrode too.

 

If you want the service manual - then either talk to your local Zero88 dealer as they will have a copy or PM Keith (KWR88) from here and he'll sort you out.

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Hello Iank99, First, thanks you for your fast response! I Have cheked all the connectors and all the cables but here is no problem, I have cheked too the two lm37 and is ok!

My local zero88 dealer is not responding for the service manual, can you help me ?What is the values of the PTC 39 ptc 120 ptc 200 ?

 

Thanks you.


* LM35

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I've asked Keith to leap in here and sort you with the service manual - it's more appropriate that he does it rather than me.

 

The PTC's are actually voltage sensor IC's - as they sense temperature they output a scaled voltage which is fed to the analogue section of the rack for conversion to digital by the same A2D's that do the channel inputs from the front panel. I can't see them labelled on the diagram I have but from experience they rarely fail - it's usually their connection on to the main board.

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