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dniggema

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  1. Hi, I have a slightly odd problem with my nearly-resurrected Sirius 24. After replacing some damaged hardware (faders and keycaps), I found that the battery wasn't holding charge and needed replacing. I replaced the battery and then found that this would discharge again within hours. After some speculative component swapping I finally found a defective diode (1N4148) on the CPU board that was causing the battery to discharge quickly. I replaced this,and now the battery holds charge and the board boots reliably. However, when it first starts up the output voltage at 100% fader position is low. In fact, it's about 8.5V, and the 0% output voltage is also high, maybe just over 1V. The voltages are proportional to fader position, though. Over a period of about 30min-1h it settles down to the correct voltage. I can't seem to stop it from doing this, even after replacing the resistors that are connected to the jumper block that controls the output voltage and some nearby capacitors that I thought might be questionable. This seems to have improved the situation slightly, but so can sticking your finger on the leads to the resistors- they're between 300K and 470K so skin resistance will make a significant difference. I have no idea what causes this. Has anybody had the same problem? The other Sirius we use in our regular venue seems to have the same problem, but less seriously. It takes about 5-10 minutes to 'warm up' to the correct voltage level, so that all the dimmers are slightly 'low' on start-up. Thanks, Dirk
  2. Yep, I know they're this grey-beige colour that frankly only its original designer (standing in for 'mother' here) could love. But is it a standard RAL or BS 4800 coulour? Basically a while back somebody put gaffa all over one of our sirius desks and it's pulled the paint off the front aluminium former below the faders that acts as a handrest. Now that I've had to disassemble the desk anyway to replace some faders after another 'somebody' (my favourite person right now) dropped a fixture on it, I'd like to respray the former if I get a chance. Thanks, Dirk
  3. A few days ago, I wanted to change the analogue output wiring of a Sirius 24 mk 2. Unfortunately I made the mistake of taking the covers off without looking at the manual first. In the process I rather foolishliy removed the cheekpieces. This didn't result in a major catastrophe, but I rather quickly figured out you actually could remove the bottom cover without removing the cheekpieces first to get at the wiring. However, somewhere in this process I have managed to make 6 oblong plastic sheets, about 1cmx2cmx1mm fall out of the Sirius. They have no visible witness marks, mounting holes or clips, nor is there any any obvious place they should have been. They look like spacers of some sort, and probably friction fitted somewhere as part of the cheekpiece assembly. I assume they weren't just flying about inside the Sirius by accident. Can anybody rescue me from feeling extremely silly and tell me where they're meant to go? I'm reluctant to just leave them out in the great tradition of 'having at least one screw left over' on the principle that they might be acting as PCB spacers or performing some other important insulating function.
  4. Paul, Thanks very much for the info. That is, in fact , exactly what I wanted to hear! Dirk
  5. Hi everyone, I have a betapack 1 with channel 2 stuck on. Usually this fault just needs a spare triac. Unfortunately it's getting rather difficult to find BTA25-600A triacs from the usual suspects (RS, Farnell, etc.). BTA25-600B parts are still generally available but as they take only half the gate current I'm not sure a substitution would be successful. Do you know if the B series components can be used instead of the A series ones? Also, I understand that the MCB equipped betapacks generally had BTA40 triacs fitted instead. If I were to substitute those on a fuse-equipped betapack, would I: a) run the risk of making the unit unsafe in some way. Need to exchange additional components on the channels with BTA40 triacs to get remotely similar dimmer curves to those channels which still had BTA25 triacs fitted? c) reduce the likelihood that the triacs will fail in the future as the BTA40 has a higher current rating? Thanks for any information.
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