iank99

You may well laugh but the price is what it is - this is partly why on your Fat Frog and FLX the change was made to smaller low profile faders - they're cheaper to produce. It may well be feasible to source them elsewhere or from folks with a stash of parts or of old Sirius - which is why you need to find a friendly dealer

Talk to your local friendly Zero88 Dealer about part number 4415000 "10K Fader Lin" - it's the fader for the Level 6 and is the same as the Sirius, Level and XL/XLS desks. List price is about £5 each +VAT and some carriage

On a side note - update your profile picture Tyler - it's well out of date

Don't oil them - just check that they're running 'true' in relation to the sensor PCB attached to the side of them... I've had it in the past where stiff wheels was caused by the PCB rubbing the wheel. You might also find that the wheel is rubbing against the bezel for the wheel and will need gently prying away from it. The wheel mechanism is simple - an acrylic hub on a stainless steel shaft so there's no bearing as such to fail - if anything with a lot of time it should wear and get more slack.

I think the answer is in the post above yours?

Don't swap just one resistor! Really.... Don't... Do all four resistors because otherwise you'll be opening the pack again and removing the PCB to swap another one within 6 months - guaranteed!

The loading might also be endless because the touchscreen isn't compatible... As ZerOS initialises it will poll connected hardware and expect a "standard" response - your screen isn't sending that response so ZerOS loops waiting for it. If the screen was disconnected - you might find the loading happens a lot quicker.

Good to hear you managed to keep it alive Changing the electrolytic capacitors might be an idea - the voltage regulators should be ok unless you know the desk has been subjected to a mains spike. Electrolytic capacitors can dry out sometimes with age and then cause problems - if you have the time, then it can't hurt.

I don't know the actual answer but as a software person - I suspect part of the answer lies here... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_management There are 'standard' modules for defining pre-mixed palettes for onscreen display and it's possible that this approach has been used. It needs a relative simple table of predefined colour names (it could even be a small SQL database so values can be altered outside of ZerOS if it were needed) and then colour values to render them. ZerOS will try to match names from the fixture against these tables so "red" would match but "reddish red" wouldn't match. Depending on any min & max values for that channel in the fixture, there will be some software scaling happening i.e. a channel that goes to 128 max on a fixture would need some translation to get a not so bright red. I suspect also that 'Create Auto Palettes' creates the same list of names regardless of fixture and just does the necessary translation from the standard colour table to the fixtures capabilities. The really interesting bit (as a software person) is the 'complexity' of translating the gel colour mapping across from 'standard' colours to RGB e.g. how to achieve Lee 183 in RGB Values and - how the Lime emitters in ETC Source LED fixtures affects colours. Of course - when the Fixture Library system itself is updated it all changes again

@Ganchanja - it can be daunting when you first power up any Jester. Your first "port of call" though is the dealer who sold it to you - they must have basic working knowledge of the desk and so could help you get started.

I've eMailed it to you Amy

Just spoken to Keith and he's sent me the schematic for the board - it's a basic resistor & diode net that could be put together on some "Vero" board if you have someone confident working with that. The most swearing is going to be at making the termination off on to the Sirius Processor Board though - the molex header you need might be a pain to get hold off. Again, if someone's really confident at soldering - you could solder direct to the pins on the molex.

Jeff - that would be the first thing to try - a proper Frog 2 PSU. Although the PSU's look similar (apart from a switch) it might well be that your Jester PSU can't provide enough current. What you're describing seems to be just about the point that the software initialises all the control surfaces and displays, as the current draw increases - the PSU shuts down. I've just checked the Frog 2 manual and it says that you need +5v @ 10a and +12v @ 3a - the Frog and Jester pull about 47% of that so their PSU's are rated accordingly.

Oops - made a boo boo - looking at the wrong part of the board... I don't think there's a 'board' as such - I've just looked inside one of my spares desks and there seems to be just a PCB mounted 8 pin DIN socket on the mainboard. A quick look at the schematics shows that the electronics are all on the main board ready - all you might have to do is remove the blanking plug from the back plate and fit a socket.

There's a list here... http://zero88.com/forum/topic/3913-compatible-external-touch-screens/#entry22029 though it probably needs moving to somewhere more prominent these days

It might well be the processor has failed or one of the RAM chips - it's quite an old desk now and sadly those components do have a finite life. I suspect you'll need someone with a lot of patience to swap out components to get it working.

It seems to be a sensible rationalisation especially now folks are getting used to the idea of having cue stacks/playbacks on faders. That it will allow showfiles to load across the range has to be a good thing - if we need to loan someone a console in an emergency, we'll have some confidence that most of their show (if not all) will load & run. The main issue that I can see for some of our customers will be providing a meaningful way of communicating the change - some of our older customers use Submasters on Solution's to run shows - getting them to understand the concept that they can still do the same with a single cue in the stack will be the big "battle". I think keeping a 'last version' before change updater accessible in Downloads would help them and give them confidence that if they can't get their head around it, they can revert to the way they are used to.

Personally (and if you listen carefully - you'll hear Jon grinding his teeth quietly) - I never lock a console and I recommend that to my customers that they don't lock either. We all have a 'favourite' PIN that we wont use on consoles or phones and are loathe to write down the memorable code we chose to lock the desk. When we forget the code, can't find the piece of paper or someone thinks it's a laugh to lock the console - you invariably discover the fact as your show is about to begin and the Zero88 offices (who can unlock the desk) are closed. If you're really paranoid about folk making changes to your show file then do as I do, carry a USB stick round on your Car key ring and save a copy of the show on to that. Of course... this does assume that you remember where you put your car keys down

Handy tip Sven I have a couple of spare Level 6's lying around too - this way it means I can communicate with 3 folk at once

Spoilsport

I was told by Mr Rogers that it worked for him as a communications technique so I took that to be manufacturer recommended?

I use my spare Illusion - not the one that the show's running on - obviously

I don't have an FLX - I find the Illusion 500 is much heavier and therefore has more inherent accuracy when thrown at stage managers - it's impact is sufficient that it makes my point before the director cottons on to there being a problem

The answer probably is to use an external HUB Kevin and to take care that it's compliant in terms of USB current draw - so a brand name you recognise (e.g. Fat Harry's Hyper Hub might be slightly non-standard) or from a supplier you trust i.e. CPC, eBuyer and so on. It goes without saying (I hope) - don't charge your iPhone off the desk whilst you run your USB Coffee warmer and no firing rockets at the director with that cute USB launcher you bought last Xmas - try and keep your current draws to a minimum on those ports for reliable working

I'm not sure really why you would? One of the processor cards would need to be stripped down - the second card is only part populated. By the time you've made metalwork for the extra faders, sourced the faders, mounted them and done the necessary electronics - you'll have spent the equivalent in money to buying either a Jester or another lighting desk. If you need manual control over more channels - then buying a Fat Frog or a Leap Frog off eBay would be better (Leap Frog for preference - their newer internally) or getting a dealer to quote you for a Jester (or even FLX) would be a far better way to go. I would also be careful if you decide to buy a second hand Sirius these days unless the person you're buying from is the original owner - when they decide to age, they don't age gracefully Don't get me wrong - I'm a big fan of vintage Zero88 kit (as I'm sure many here will testify) but "upgrading" a Sirius 24 to 48 - no, sorry it's really not worth it.