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Everything posted by iank99

  1. You're right to suspect the ambient temperature - chipsets do have optimum operating ranges which can cause flakiness if those ranges are exceeded, the chips in a desk might feel they're running "hot" but they might be not far off their maximum ambient. From experience there's enough margin in the limits to allow some very hot running but it's measured in hours not days... The case being "sealed" won't help either in extreme ambient conditions because of the lack of air movement. The other consideration might be - what else is "sharing" the power circuits that your desk is connected to? A
  2. It might be a "sizing" issue with the installer that can't read a 4gB drive - I do have a couple of "new old stock" 1gB drives that I bought "just in case" about 5 years ago. I've just tried one briefly to see if my PC will read it & it seems ok. Be happy to let one go for a reasonable sum if that proves to be the issue - email is ian at serviceguy dot co dot uk
  3. Even more impressively - some 25 years after the desk series was discontinued, folks still love the hardware & are finding innovative ways to use it.
  4. Nathan - it would be a good idea to replace the battery as the memory on the mainboard is used to save patch & show data & is usually run direct from the battery when the desk isn't powered up so with a failing battery, you'll find that you'll need to reload shows each time you power the desk on. The battery doesn't take long to swap - from memory it's a CR2032 - the most time will be opening the case to access the battery.
  5. Good news! If the Frog is sat in a corner and not being moved then a homebrew solution for the PSU if you have one about is going to be cheaper than buying a new spare.
  6. Yeah - the PSU's are switched mode so you won't get proper values without a load connected but to do that - ensure you've not got a desk lamp plugged in - just in case.
  7. Kevin's right - the 5 volt rail is probably ok but the 12v rail will cause issues with the floppy drive as I outlined above (is there a desk lamp plugged in? If this is faulty or a cheap one then this has been known to pull the 12v rail down). I've had a quick look at the schematics for the zero88 produced boards and they do seem to rely on the 5 volt rail but there were never published schematics for the STMain (they were considered unrepairable and designed outside of Zero88 from memory) so I don't know if the 12v rail is used on the processor board for LCD illuminators and so forth. I wo
  8. Glad to see you got sorted - dead Frogs are not a happy sight. I'm guessing the displaced power cable for the FDD caused a lack of response when the drive is "polled" to see if there's a disk inserted with upgrade software - the lack of power causing the drive not to be able to respond probably threw the software in to a "loop" waiting. I would hope that the loop is only programmed to take so many cycles (some drives might be slow initialising & responding) rather than wait forever.
  9. Yay - result! Glad you got sorted
  10. If you let me know the PCB number of the board - I'm at my workshop on Friday & I'm pretty sure I should have one in my recovered spares stock, I'll have a look and check.
  11. Dave, If you can release the middle wheel from the front panel - check the small PCB on the side of the wheel is locked in place under the clips. Sometimes the PCB comes adrift slightly and the electronics don't read the wheel movement - click it back in to place and it should be OK. I've rarely known these to fail to be honest. If you do need to replace - I have some good used encoders for sale - you can find my website under my profile or search "The Service Guy".
  12. I've just had a quick look through the circuit diagrams for the Level, Alcora/Elara & Diablo (which used the same processor as the Mark 2 Alcora) and everything seems to be running from a 5v reg rail (it would leave a lot to chance for a reliable 12v rail that could also potentially surge). The Alcora/Elara's could have an optional Analogue output card fitted and that did need a 15v rail but there were issues sourcing a reliable supply of PSU's that had the twin voltage rails but by the time the Mark 2's were in common use nearly all sites were using DMX so the analogue option was dis
  13. Kevin's correct - the acid seems to creep along under the solder resist - depending how long the old battery was left in-situ, the more damage has likely been done I'm afraid. There are some fine tracks near the power supply molex on the main board that seem especially susceptible to corrosion - I had to scrap a Demux 48 because too much had been eaten away and it wasn't worth the time to try and get it sorted
  14. There's a voltage regulator inside the desks anyway to drop the voltage to what the electronics need but you don't want that to do much "work" hence trying to keep near to 9v (it's a 5v reg from memory). If the input voltage is more than 9v then the regulator will do its job but the excess voltage gets "dumped" as heat which can shorten the life of the regulator. Any decent smoothed DC 9v PSU will do the job
  15. I think Edward is correct - been a while since I had to swap out this particular PCB - might be worth checking the pins for the LCD for dry joints, they can happen and cause weirdness. If that's no good then it will have to be a new PCB - I can supply the PCB (though not from stock sadly) if that helps you? My Profile has my website address - I would expect the PCB's to be 7-10 working days to stock but I can check this if you want to order from me.
  16. Yeah - Edwards right, it sounds like a fader dying - the clock issue is because of a dead battery but generally that's all it tends to affect aside from having to reload a show every time you power the desk on. There's a self test internally that I'm sure Keith has told you about by now - that will help identify the suspects - perhaps some Servisol Super 10 sprayed minutely in to those suspects will help.
  17. Glad you got it working! Most Zero kit just needs an educated "poke" rather than a soldering iron or major surgery when it goes wrong - one of the main reasons I always enjoyed selling the kit
  18. If the encoder assembly is the same as on the other Frogs - what can happen sometimes is the small PCB with the sensor "pops" out of it's clips so it doesn't "see" the wheel moving. It just needs pushing back home on to the clips... If you're happy to open the desk and look at the wheels - it will be obvious (and only needs to be adrift by a few millimetres to not read the wheel).
  19. Yeah - these dimmers are usually very quiet in use unless you're trying to use them with some sort of transformer'd load e.g. birdies or fairy lights - then they do get a bit upset. Is the dimmer working smoothly between 0 and 100% or do you see flickering/steps in the intensity as you move the fader? I'd also be interested to know if the problem exists with just the internal faders or via a DMX or analogue desk plugged in to the unit. Of course, you might have discovered the reason it was being sold - the previous owner didn't realise it's an easy unit to repair (sort of :P)
  20. I've still got the schematic - if you want to eMail me - ian at Serviceguy.co.uk I'll send you a copy.
  21. It doesn't sound like a battery issue per se but the fact that it's affecting all the outputs suggest it's more than just an LM324 driver failing - what dimmers is it driving? Does it have the negative output kit fitted? If it does have the Neg output kit, then it might be the voltage rail that drives those starting to go thermal but the other thought is "When did you have the internal battery replaced?" - if it's never been replaced, the battery might be leaking and "eating" the PCB - often the tracks that provide some of the power on reset cycles.
  22. Yeah - those pesky DIP switches have a mind of their own... If it hadn't been the DIP switches - I do have a stock of reclaimed fader boards for the Frog series
  23. They are the same PCB - configuration between the two types is done by a combination of firmware & data on the CF card I believe. I would save a show file if you're able to - just in case (I believe in Miurphy's law!). I'm not sure about swapping the CF Card over but as you're fitting a CF from an LF48 on to a board that was a 96 - you won't lose anything in terms of "identity". A quick phone call to Keith should confirm this (I've never done it so can't be certain) - swap the battery on the "new" mainboard too for good measure.
  24. I have some Frog fader boards around as reclaimed spares - they're largely untested having been removed from desks that were put away in to "store" as desk upgrades happened, however the most that will be wrong might be failed/dirty faders. If you're looking for a board to replace one with damaged tracks or chips - they would certainly do the job. If you want to pursue this - drop me an eMail to ian@serviceguy.co.uk.
  25. Yeah - I have Sirius Keyswitches about and I have Keys too - drop me an eMail at ian@serviceguy.co.uk
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