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Everything posted by iank99

  1. I've just had a quick look through the circuit diagrams for the Level, Alcora/Elara & Diablo (which used the same processor as the Mark 2 Alcora) and everything seems to be running from a 5v reg rail (it would leave a lot to chance for a reliable 12v rail that could also potentially surge). The Alcora/Elara's could have an optional Analogue output card fitted and that did need a 15v rail but there were issues sourcing a reliable supply of PSU's that had the twin voltage rails but by the time the Mark 2's were in common use nearly all sites were using DMX so the analogue option was discontinued. The only other feature that might have needed a higher voltage appears to be on the Diablo for what looks like an CAN Bus option (though I never saw one) - it might have been part of a plan to use the processor for another product. The option to offer a 12v PSU spare was a choice so that it rationalised the supply chain and kept the spares pricelist easier I suspect.
  2. Kevin's correct - the acid seems to creep along under the solder resist - depending how long the old battery was left in-situ, the more damage has likely been done I'm afraid. There are some fine tracks near the power supply molex on the main board that seem especially susceptible to corrosion - I had to scrap a Demux 48 because too much had been eaten away and it wasn't worth the time to try and get it sorted
  3. There's a voltage regulator inside the desks anyway to drop the voltage to what the electronics need but you don't want that to do much "work" hence trying to keep near to 9v (it's a 5v reg from memory). If the input voltage is more than 9v then the regulator will do its job but the excess voltage gets "dumped" as heat which can shorten the life of the regulator. Any decent smoothed DC 9v PSU will do the job
  4. I think Edward is correct - been a while since I had to swap out this particular PCB - might be worth checking the pins for the LCD for dry joints, they can happen and cause weirdness. If that's no good then it will have to be a new PCB - I can supply the PCB (though not from stock sadly) if that helps you? My Profile has my website address - I would expect the PCB's to be 7-10 working days to stock but I can check this if you want to order from me.
  5. Yeah - Edwards right, it sounds like a fader dying - the clock issue is because of a dead battery but generally that's all it tends to affect aside from having to reload a show every time you power the desk on. There's a self test internally that I'm sure Keith has told you about by now - that will help identify the suspects - perhaps some Servisol Super 10 sprayed minutely in to those suspects will help.
  6. Glad you got it working! Most Zero kit just needs an educated "poke" rather than a soldering iron or major surgery when it goes wrong - one of the main reasons I always enjoyed selling the kit
  7. If the encoder assembly is the same as on the other Frogs - what can happen sometimes is the small PCB with the sensor "pops" out of it's clips so it doesn't "see" the wheel moving. It just needs pushing back home on to the clips... If you're happy to open the desk and look at the wheels - it will be obvious (and only needs to be adrift by a few millimetres to not read the wheel).
  8. Yeah - these dimmers are usually very quiet in use unless you're trying to use them with some sort of transformer'd load e.g. birdies or fairy lights - then they do get a bit upset. Is the dimmer working smoothly between 0 and 100% or do you see flickering/steps in the intensity as you move the fader? I'd also be interested to know if the problem exists with just the internal faders or via a DMX or analogue desk plugged in to the unit. Of course, you might have discovered the reason it was being sold - the previous owner didn't realise it's an easy unit to repair (sort of :P)
  9. I've still got the schematic - if you want to eMail me - ian at Serviceguy.co.uk I'll send you a copy.
  10. It doesn't sound like a battery issue per se but the fact that it's affecting all the outputs suggest it's more than just an LM324 driver failing - what dimmers is it driving? Does it have the negative output kit fitted? If it does have the Neg output kit, then it might be the voltage rail that drives those starting to go thermal but the other thought is "When did you have the internal battery replaced?" - if it's never been replaced, the battery might be leaking and "eating" the PCB - often the tracks that provide some of the power on reset cycles.
  11. Yeah - those pesky DIP switches have a mind of their own... If it hadn't been the DIP switches - I do have a stock of reclaimed fader boards for the Frog series
  12. They are the same PCB - configuration between the two types is done by a combination of firmware & data on the CF card I believe. I would save a show file if you're able to - just in case (I believe in Miurphy's law!). I'm not sure about swapping the CF Card over but as you're fitting a CF from an LF48 on to a board that was a 96 - you won't lose anything in terms of "identity". A quick phone call to Keith should confirm this (I've never done it so can't be certain) - swap the battery on the "new" mainboard too for good measure.
  13. I have some Frog fader boards around as reclaimed spares - they're largely untested having been removed from desks that were put away in to "store" as desk upgrades happened, however the most that will be wrong might be failed/dirty faders. If you're looking for a board to replace one with damaged tracks or chips - they would certainly do the job. If you want to pursue this - drop me an eMail to ian@serviceguy.co.uk.
  14. Yeah - I have Sirius Keyswitches about and I have Keys too - drop me an eMail at ian@serviceguy.co.uk
  15. Looking at the Schematic's for this PCB - there's a DIP switch on there that probably sets an "ID" for each PCB once it's in the desk - multiple boards will need a unique ID setting. Check that the board you put in has the same DIP switch settings as the board you removed... There's no processor as such on the PCB so there's no firmware to update - the ZerOS updates affect the processor board itself so doing an update won't cure the issue.
  16. The noisy fan will be in one of the Performer Hex fixtures - they use a mass produced fan to cool the drivers and sometimes you get a rogue one that either has bearings that ages prematurely or the fan might have been not quite assembled properly. Talk to the dealer you bought them from if they're still in warranty - they might be able to swap it for a quieter fan BUT there's always some fan noise from these units, they're not thermostatically controlled so you have to accept a rise in the overall background noise level in the hall.
  17. I see Jon's multi-tasking as ever... Serving Ice creams in Edingburgh, console training and maintaining the forum
  18. Not "new" to me - it's the £26 "not working" one that we talked about a few weeks ago... An hour on the bench and it's happy as larry - someone wasn't very careful when they replaced the battery and broke a PCB track without realising.
  19. It's not just you - the number buttons, "next" or the direct selector dropdown doesn't seem to work. The browser shows the URL for the page you want but nothing happens which suggests a backend issue in the forum software caused by database corruption or an bad index perhaps?
  20. That's great news - at least you have a desk working for the moment - you can now consider what to do next and find someone to effect a repair if that's how you decide to proceed.
  21. Also - plug any USB drive that you use for upgrading in to one of the USB sockets on the rear panel of the console (from memory - I think it's next to the RJ45 connector) as these are driven direct on the motherboard, this eliminates any issues caused by the onboard USB hub that drives the front panel USB sockets..
  22. It might be that the flash disk has failed but from experience - I've never seen it happen, yours might just need re-seating. I can't remember the spec for the disk - it's a relatively small one being "old" tech and they do appear on eBay but I'm not sure whether you can load everything on to the disk whilst it's inside the desk. If you think that you need to go that route - it would be worth sending an eMail to Keith at Zero88 and asking his advice (KeithRogers@eaton.com)
  23. The 'X' is the cursor generated by the X-windows subsystem in ZerOS as the operating system initialises. Did you notice before the desk got to this stage whether lots of text scrolled up the screen before it blanked and the 'X' appears? If you did, then the processor is probably running ok but it encountered an issue as it tried to initialise the graphics. If you feel confident opening the desk - I'd swap the internal battery (if you've never changed it - can never hurt doing, it's a CR2032) and whilst you're inside ensure that the flash disk is secure. The flash disk is a square device plugged on to the mainboard that holds the OS - sometimes they can work loose and just need reseating - a gentle push with your thumb is enough. The desk might reboot ok then - I've rarely found anything that stops these desks booting unless they've been really abused. It would also be worth unplugging anything plugged in to the USB ports on the desk such as keyboards, mice, phone chargers, lights or fans. The USB hub inside the desk doesn't provide a lot of current on the USB ports so anything that draws a lot of current like older USB items can cause boot issues - I think they're initialised as the X windows subsystem is "booted" hence your desk crashing. You shouldn't be plugging much USB in to the desk except newer keyboards, corded mice and flash sticks - if you need USB lights, fans, rocket launchers, mug warmers or what have you - then a powered USB hub is the way to run those. I would offer to come and look but I just noticed you're in the Phillipines - so that may be costly - might be time to research local Zero88 repair centres just in case
  24. It should be ok but ask other folks who use the desk before you upgrade - the latest version of ZerOS "changes" the submasters in to "playbacks". They now control a playback stack which can be a single memory/cue so they react the same but the phraseology might confuse folks too much. I've had a couple of customers not update to the latest (and in one case revert the software) because of this, so it would be worth having a chat with folks unless you're the only major user.
  25. iank99

    Chilli Dimmers

    Not in the Chilli range... The iLight range uses the same chassis and shares some of the electronics of the Chilli range but offers a better mix of control protocols to replace existing architectural controls. The good news is - Keith Roger does some commissioning of iLight kit so he can answer some basic questions to get you started...
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