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iank99

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  1. Yay - result! Glad you got sorted
  2. If you let me know the PCB number of the board - I'm at my workshop on Friday & I'm pretty sure I should have one in my recovered spares stock, I'll have a look and check.
  3. Dave, If you can release the middle wheel from the front panel - check the small PCB on the side of the wheel is locked in place under the clips. Sometimes the PCB comes adrift slightly and the electronics don't read the wheel movement - click it back in to place and it should be OK. I've rarely known these to fail to be honest. If you do need to replace - I have some good used encoders for sale - you can find my website under my profile or search "The Service Guy".
  4. I've just had a quick look through the circuit diagrams for the Level, Alcora/Elara & Diablo (which used the same processor as the Mark 2 Alcora) and everything seems to be running from a 5v reg rail (it would leave a lot to chance for a reliable 12v rail that could also potentially surge). The Alcora/Elara's could have an optional Analogue output card fitted and that did need a 15v rail but there were issues sourcing a reliable supply of PSU's that had the twin voltage rails but by the time the Mark 2's were in common use nearly all sites were using DMX so the analogue option was dis
  5. Kevin's correct - the acid seems to creep along under the solder resist - depending how long the old battery was left in-situ, the more damage has likely been done I'm afraid. There are some fine tracks near the power supply molex on the main board that seem especially susceptible to corrosion - I had to scrap a Demux 48 because too much had been eaten away and it wasn't worth the time to try and get it sorted
  6. There's a voltage regulator inside the desks anyway to drop the voltage to what the electronics need but you don't want that to do much "work" hence trying to keep near to 9v (it's a 5v reg from memory). If the input voltage is more than 9v then the regulator will do its job but the excess voltage gets "dumped" as heat which can shorten the life of the regulator. Any decent smoothed DC 9v PSU will do the job
  7. I think Edward is correct - been a while since I had to swap out this particular PCB - might be worth checking the pins for the LCD for dry joints, they can happen and cause weirdness. If that's no good then it will have to be a new PCB - I can supply the PCB (though not from stock sadly) if that helps you? My Profile has my website address - I would expect the PCB's to be 7-10 working days to stock but I can check this if you want to order from me.
  8. Yeah - Edwards right, it sounds like a fader dying - the clock issue is because of a dead battery but generally that's all it tends to affect aside from having to reload a show every time you power the desk on. There's a self test internally that I'm sure Keith has told you about by now - that will help identify the suspects - perhaps some Servisol Super 10 sprayed minutely in to those suspects will help.
  9. Glad you got it working! Most Zero kit just needs an educated "poke" rather than a soldering iron or major surgery when it goes wrong - one of the main reasons I always enjoyed selling the kit
  10. If the encoder assembly is the same as on the other Frogs - what can happen sometimes is the small PCB with the sensor "pops" out of it's clips so it doesn't "see" the wheel moving. It just needs pushing back home on to the clips... If you're happy to open the desk and look at the wheels - it will be obvious (and only needs to be adrift by a few millimetres to not read the wheel).
  11. Yeah - these dimmers are usually very quiet in use unless you're trying to use them with some sort of transformer'd load e.g. birdies or fairy lights - then they do get a bit upset. Is the dimmer working smoothly between 0 and 100% or do you see flickering/steps in the intensity as you move the fader? I'd also be interested to know if the problem exists with just the internal faders or via a DMX or analogue desk plugged in to the unit. Of course, you might have discovered the reason it was being sold - the previous owner didn't realise it's an easy unit to repair (sort of :P)
  12. I've still got the schematic - if you want to eMail me - ian at Serviceguy.co.uk I'll send you a copy.
  13. It doesn't sound like a battery issue per se but the fact that it's affecting all the outputs suggest it's more than just an LM324 driver failing - what dimmers is it driving? Does it have the negative output kit fitted? If it does have the Neg output kit, then it might be the voltage rail that drives those starting to go thermal but the other thought is "When did you have the internal battery replaced?" - if it's never been replaced, the battery might be leaking and "eating" the PCB - often the tracks that provide some of the power on reset cycles.
  14. Yeah - those pesky DIP switches have a mind of their own... If it hadn't been the DIP switches - I do have a stock of reclaimed fader boards for the Frog series
  15. They are the same PCB - configuration between the two types is done by a combination of firmware & data on the CF card I believe. I would save a show file if you're able to - just in case (I believe in Miurphy's law!). I'm not sure about swapping the CF Card over but as you're fitting a CF from an LF48 on to a board that was a 96 - you won't lose anything in terms of "identity". A quick phone call to Keith should confirm this (I've never done it so can't be certain) - swap the battery on the "new" mainboard too for good measure.
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