KWR88

Hi folks, Due to the number of requests we receive for circuit diagrams / service information both for current and discontinued products, I would like to make our position clear on this. It is our general policy to only make circuit diagrams and service information available to our authorised distributors (CLICK HERE to find your nearest). Most if not all of our products are marked "No User Serviceable Parts Inside". It would be irresponsible of us to freely publish information which could be seen to encourage end-users to open up equipment and attempt their own repairs. Similarly, and in particular for dimmers which carry hazardous voltages inside, it is often inappropriate for us to get involved with forum discussions about product repairs, or to offer a specific repair forum. We understand that requests may come from technicians who have the necessary skills, training and experience to carry out repairs competently and safely. However you will understand that it can be difficult if not impossible for us to assess this from postings in an open internet forum. We will consider making exceptions to the general policy in some cases, please contact me by phone or email with any enquiries.

First please can you give me the desk serial number so I can date the hardware. Second what are you using to unzip the file? I have found it is easier to use winzip as I have had a few problems using third party zip tools.

Two things that I would first check. First is the battery. Make sure that this is ok. No signs of corrosion and that it is reading 2.2V or above without power and below 4.2V with power. Second I would also try removing the 63b05 AcAI as this can stop the displays from working by dragging down the address lines and clock etc. Other than this then you are starting to look at the HC373 and LM7218 that drive the displays.

Hi Russell, Not sure but I think I may have already spoken to you about this. If you are running the LB as a stand alone sequence player then it will start of the sequence when the power is switched off and back on. You you can get it to start from where it left of or from step 1 using the superuser option.

Dear Arnout, The two most obvious thing that I can think of are; A fault with the master PCB faders. Either a damaged fader or something like a loose connection to the PCB. Also check the switch on the back of the preset PCB that identify which channels they are controlling as if this has moved or is faulty and reading as another PCB it can cause the multiplex lines to be out of sync and you will see this sort of problem.

Sorry to say that these cards are no longer manufactured. I don't think it is something that a dealer would have on the shelf as they tended to be made to order.

First can you give me the desk serial number as this should let me knowif it's a retro fit or standard. Second if you go into super user do you see the patch option? If not then the card is not communicating with the main PCB. This may be a simple loose cable to the DMX card. Please call me for more information as it is easier to talk you through the obvious things to look for.

The DMX output will be ok but the analogue should also have these outputs stuck on as well. Have you tried replacing the 63B05 as mentioned on my previous posting? As a quick test you should be able to remove the IC and be able to power the desk up with out it to see if the LEDs come on.

Any of the buttons can stick. From experience the most common cause is dirt, bit of debris slip down the side and end gumming the button up or simply wedging its self between the metal work and button. Liquid, even a small amount is just as bad. This can also end up across the contact on the PCB as well and give the same effect. If a £1 for very desk (across our whole range) that has been returned as "not responding" correctly that had liquid damage. I would not be typing this, I would be sat somewhere on a beach with a glass of something nice and cold in my hand. You can check for this using the inbuilt test mode on the desk. To access press and hold the F1 key on the front panel of the desk and turn the desk on. Keep the F1 key held until the large display reads Preset A faders 1-6. Basically you can now test the front panel functions. Different tests can be selected using the channel flash buttons, or if you are still using an old version of software (somewhere around version 4) the submaster buttons. I can provide more specific info these test on request but they should be self explanatary. One of the the tests will be a button test. You will see a line of dot on the display and as you press a button the name of the button is displayed. Note that all the previous flash button will jump you back to their test as it is assumed these buttons work ok :wink: Some of the buttons will also cause an LED's to light, others will only cause a star to appear on the display to replace the dot. NB. The submaster step button will cause all the LED's on the desk to light. Press again to turn off. What you are looking for is either a button name constantly being shown or flashing on and off without you touching them. To get out of test mode switch the desk off and back on. The other one to watch for is if you are using and external keyboard as I have dealt with a number instances where something is left on the keys and this gives you the same sort of problem as a front panel button being stuck. The test mode will not pick this up.

The added mode is a repeat of the midi functions it;s ghosting on the switch contact as reading the previous one still, on ocasion if you switch on in that mode you may get the three bars back until you turn the switch. On most of those switchs there is normally a locking ring that can be used to set the number of positions the switch can move through. With the desk in preset set this to position 6 and everything should be ok. We tend to glue this to stop the ring moving. The second problem has a number of possible causes. If it is only a couple of channels then it may be a faulty analogue IC. If it something like channel 3-12 with 1 and 2 off then it sounds like a possible fault with the ACAI IC dragging the analogue section down. The IC in question is an 63B05, try removing it and see if this cures the problem. These parts are difficult to find as they have become obsolete now. The other thing I would also check it the battery voltage. You are looking for a voltage of at least 2.2v with out power and under 4.6 with. Also check it's condition, if it looks like it is strarting to corrode replace it.

From the picture the display is showing three bars. This means that the desk does not register which mode it is in. This could be due to a damaged mode switch or the key decoder circuit having failed. Best guess is the mode select switch.

CLICK HERE to download the file. NB: files may be removed from here once they are added to the main fixture library.

The way round what you are attempting as has already been posted, could be to use two desk, one for the dimmers and the other for the moving lights. You could then use the remote and link a go button between the desk that would trigger both cue stack at the the same time. F1 is used to lock the monitor to a specific screen ie subs, palets F3 only works in version 9.0 and above and is used to enable you to select the chase that you want to adjust the speed of instead off instead of grabbing all of them. Scroll lock has a function on the 9.8 version of the software it enables the use of the entre button as a go button. For the AB bit on the back of the desk, as has been mentioned only the mambo and bullfrog has the two universes but the small desk all share a common bottom panel.

As I have already said please contact direct I can send you the required information.

Dear Sir, It sounds like there is a problem with the simm modules or the battery. PM me to talk about this further.

Dear Sir, I think that I have already spoken to you and we have arrange to have the pack returned. If not please pm me for return details.

You may find that it is just the LED that has failed. There are a couple of reasons that they can go. It would be worth dropping the fixture PCB out to check the for signs of liquid spillage etc. The only thing is that it is easier to replace the button than try and change the LED as getting the button apart with out damaging it is a nightmare. If you want to PM your address to me on krogers@zero88.com I will send you a button.

We can still do some of the spares. The rack ears are not available though, however the drawing is HERE if you want to get some made up yourself. Please PM me for pricing etc.

Dear Ben, No it not possible on the betapack to set up a channel as a switch. It is possible to do this via a Demux 24 or 48 or on the Rack 6 dimmers etc.

HI, As mentioned in my PM you have a few options available to you. Please do not hesitate to contact me to discuss the matter further.

Strange fault never had this type of fault reported before. Could you list a few of the other desks that you have tried as this may help. I can't think of anything obvious other than a cable problem which you have already said that you have checked out. It may be worth if you have not done so already to try a terminator on the DMX line. Is there anything after the dimmers on the line, if yes have you tried removing them? The only other thing that I can think of is to use a DMX tool and actually look at the time parameters that are comming out of the other desks and compaire it to ours.

OK we have had a few problems with the lamps casuing the desk to crash. It has to do with the type of lamp that is being used. The lamp is supplied by the 12v dc rail via a transistor. We use pins 2 and 3 of the lamp socket and reccomend that the lamp has 2 wires with isolation from the lamp chassis. We have seen some lamps that only use a single wire and the chassis as the 0v. This is ok as long as it is 0v that is connected. If it is the 12v rail then it will drag this down which can shut the desk down. This can casue the thermal cut out in the PSU to trip which will take a little while to reset. It can also casue the internal protection to cut in and again this takes a little while to reset. We looked at several lamps and found that they could be wired to either pin. If you do have a two wire lamp then it may be that the lamp caused a short as it was pushed in an had the same sort of effect.

It sounds like fader 26 may have a fault or be "dirty". It would be worth giving a small drop of switch cleaner to see if this cures the problem.

Normaly a minimum of 4 people.

Dear Sir, I think that I have answered this from a direct e-mail and recommended that you contact our US dealer. From what you have said though it looks like the liquid has got into the DIMM or battery and possibly damaged these.