Paul

There's a couple of topics HERE and HERE which should answer your question. Basically you can't set a HTP (brightness) channel to non-dim, but there is a trick you can do by controlling the channel as an LTP channel (assigned as a fixture) and then using 2 submasters (one to turn it on and one to turn it off) with the relevant LTP attribute set to snap.

As far as I know, the sub levels have never been displayed on the monitor output, it's always been the pages, check the manual (which was last updated for software 9.0) page 7-9. If you want to know the level of the subs, why not look at the faders themselves?

Thanks for the PM. Your desk, for whatever reason, has the serial number of a Fat Frog. Hence all the moving light features will appear in the menus and on the screens, even though you've not actually got any physical front panel controls for them. This won't do you any harm, but it might be a bit confusing. You will be able to record moving light effects with Phantom Frog (Fat Frog mode) and replay them on your desk, but you won't be able to edit them on the desk itself. So you've got some *free* moving light functionality on the desk, but probably not enough to be useful! Your idea about using submasters to control moving lights, although intriguing, is unlikely to happen for numerous commercial and technical reasons.

Can you PM me the serial number that your desk reports in Super User -> Desk Information, and also the serial number printed on the rear of the desk? Those menus should not be there on a normal Frog, I suspect your desk has the wrong serial number coded into it...

Your problem is that Phantom Frog can't find the DLL it needs (DXK.dll). This should be in the install directory (default C:Program FilesZero 88 Lighting LtdPhantom Frog) together with the 4 files you mention. Chances are that on your desktop you've got a copy of the exe, not a shortcut to where it's installed. Fix this. Also worth making sure that you are logged in as a user with sufficient privileges to modify the Program Files directory.

When you say "switch the fader up to 50%", which fader are you referring to? The Mambo Frog has one SX Master fader which governs the maximum HTP output level of all 48 SX Buttons. Is this the fader you're referring to?

The Jester manual has been updated to Issue 1.1, to include the new features added in software versions up to 1.8. It can be downloaded from the Jester support page HERE.

How about these... Program Mode Run Mode..................................................................Preset Mode SuperUser................................................................Online Help Multilingual! Bit blurry, but you should get the idea.

Best thing really would be to use a double pole switch. Failing that, add a diode between the switch and the remote pin (anode at the remote pin side), so that none of the battery current can go to the desk. So (excusing the dodgy picture)... Battery+ -> Resistor -> (A)LED(K) - \ -> Switch -> GND / Remote Pin -> (A)Diode(K)---------- Not sure without trying it, if the desk will still recognise the switch closure with the extra diode volt drop in there. But you might get away with it. Let us know how you get on!

There aren't any interfaces on the main processor PCB for a CD drive of any kind I'm afraid.

I've added a poll to this topic, so cast your votes please...

Jester Operating Software version 1.8 has been released, and is available for download from the Zero 88 support website. CLICK HERE. This contains the following changes from version 1.7: * The Copy button is now enabled in Run Mode, to allow snapshots of the current look to be taken ready for pasting into a new memory/submaster in Program Mode. * In Program Mode, when selecting an unprogrammed memory/submaster, the outputs now remain unchanged (previously they used to snap to the current fader positions). To update the desk: 1. Download the zip file, and extract the contents to a USB memory stick. This will be a file with the extension .jos. It is important that you only have one .jos file on the USB memory stick at any one time. 2. Plug the USB memory stick into the desk. 3. Switch on the desk with the Left and Right cursor keys held down. The Jester Upgrade Menu will appear on the LCD and monitor screen. The monitor screen is quite distinctive - it looks like a red and yellow circus tent: 4. Wait for the USB memory stick to be recognised by the desk. This is usually indicated by the LED on the memory stick flickering for a short time, and then returning to a steady flash. 5. With the cursors flashing on <OK>, press the Enter button. When the desk displays the name of the upgrade file found, ensure <OK> is selected and press Enter again to begin the upgrade. 6. The desk will now perform the upgrade. Do not switch off while this is happening. 7. When the upgrade is complete, press Enter to start the desk, there is no need to switch off and reboot.

Providing the Rackmaster660 is configured for 0 to +10V voltage input (check it's user manual HERE), then yes you can do this. You also need to make sure that the Demux24 is set for positive output voltage (the default). If I remember correctly, the Rackmaster 660 has an XLR input connector, so you'll need to make up some adaptor leads to the DIN outputs from the Demux24. The +20V is for powering control desks, however the Demux24 does not need this so it should be left unconnected.

The reason that bigger capacity cards won't work is that the higher address bits are not connected in the desk. If you're nimble with a soldering iron, you could open up your desk and connect them to 0V, and then the bigger cards should work. Pinout information is in the datasheet (link above). But I didn't tell you that, and if you break your desk, it's not my fault!

There is some more information HERE, use it at your peril, we make no guarantees as to the accuracy or completeness of this! The guy who wrote this moved on long ago, so we're not able to answer any questions I'm afraid. Best of luck!

The +5V voltage to the desk is quite critical, if it goes under-voltage even by 0.2V or so, then the desk will reset. I'm not sure what you've "made up", but you do need a well regulated +5V with a bit of power behind it. Something like an old PC power supply should do the trick. Use the thickest wire you can, and keep the length as short as possible to avoid voltage drops. If you tick the "Notify me when a reply is posted" box when making a posting, then the forum will automagically email your registered email address as soon as there is a reply.

When you're programming, select Movement Effect None to stop a previous effect, and Movement Effect Unprog to leave the previous effect unaffected.

The Sirius 250 PCIF card is a custom card which connects to the ISA bus. This was actually one of the reasons that the product was discontinued - you just can't buy ATX motherboards any more which have the ISA connectors on. On the PCIF card is a slave processor (also now obsolete!) which communicates with the PC through a dual port RAM mapped into ISA address space. If I recall correctly, the slave processor does some of the DMX calculation in this desk, and so the interface to it is far from trivial. I think your best bet would be to dispose of the remains of your desk in an environmentally friendly fashion, and start somewhere else if you want to get into computer based DMX control. Do a google search for 'USB DMX', that would probably be the best place to start.

Use the 'Drive' button to set the chase drive to Manual when you program the chase.

I promise you we won't design any new desks with floppy disks in! As to producing a retrofittable kit for existing Frogs, this depends on a number of things including technical feasibility, costs, available R&D time, and the level of demand there might be for such a kit. So yes we are interested in gauging the level of demand, but we're not going to make any commitments at the moment I'm afraid.

We don't have them in German I'm afraid, but I have added the English instructions for the DMX Kit to the Sirius 24/48 Support Page.

A 300mA brick power supply would be fine. The output voltage actually isn't that critical, anywhere between 9V and 15V DC will work (it's regulated down to 5V inside the devices).

Some ideas... On the Diablo, check the 'DMX' screen in View/Preview to see what the Diablo is actually sending on each DMX channel. On the Demux, make sure the 'Data Received' LED is lit. Try clearing the the Demux to default (details in it's manual) to make sure you're at a known starting point with no funny laws etc. On the Alphapack, make sure the Channel 1-3/4-6 switch is in the position you require.

The only potential issue you might have here is that one Chillinet dimmer may not be able to supply enough power on the +12V to run a Master Controller and a Chillinet panel. If this does prove a problem, it can be easily overcome by adding your own +12V DC power adaptor anywhere on the network to boost the power available.

Yes this is correct, you just daisy-chain it all together with standard CAT5 cable, and make sure you have a 120R resistor to terminate each end of the cable (one of these is supplied with each Chillinet control panel). You'll need some RJ11 connectors to connect into the Chillinet ports on the Rack6 dimmers (RJ11 is the 4-way version of an RJ12). Easiest thing would be to buy some short ready-crimped RJ11-RJ11 cables with these connectors already on (e.g. RS 303-1287), cut them in half and join to the CAT5 with terminal blocks. Bear in mind that Rack6 dimmers cannot be configured into areas like other Chilli dimmers, and that they don't support sequences. But if all you're after is preset scenes in a single area, it will work fine.