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Just a quick photoshoot of myself cleaning a Leap Frog. Hmmm a scratch on the PCB... and we didn't open it up before, strange! The front of the console upside down Damn these screws were fastened by a world wrestling champion or what? Needed my Leatherman on 50% of them because I was afraid the powered screwdriver would damage the board when it would skip out. Dirrrrrty! Clean Fixture buttons needed cleaning too! Where can I order spare buttons? Maybe some modding to convert this Leap into a Mambo Right, guys... you do know you can order these powercables in short versions right? Don't really get the point of this, but hey... don't care as long as it works I gues... Conclusion: a lot of parts from the Netherlands (Philips chips, flat cables)! It's woth cleaning it out, we didn't have any problems with it but I could imagine some problems in the future when you don't clean it. Next up: the Fat Frog, but I guess that would produce the same pictures Clean your Frog!

Hi there, My XL console isn't working any longer! Though the faders do work, and it outputs valid DMX the entire programming section is down. The pagenumber display displays this: I've looked this up in the manual and that says there's a problem with the position of the mode switch. I've placed it into different positions: it seems to be fine! What other hardware problem could be causing this?

By the way, which act are you going to do there?

I did a show there 3 months ago... what do you want to know??? I used my own rig for the stagelighting. Theve got some conventionals (PARs) mainly used for the lighting of the venue itself. I used some of their PARs for my front and their blinders (2x 4light) which are there anyways (above the stage). For really technical stuff contact them, I believe my contact that night was called Guido, very nice dude. Oh if you bring your own console: save some space for patching the houselights onto your console. They don't mind and you can do some nice things with it.

You can't download it, you should buy it... current pricetag is around 3000 euros.

Take a picture!

Jij komt maar gewoon naar Rolight, gezellig! []

One of our crewmembers once connected the 3-pin DMX line from the rig into the 12V current for the desklight... I made VERY sure he was not supposed to do that, and that we wouldn't appreciate it if he did the same trick once more Luckily the equipment responds better to 12V, nothing was broken. I was very glad because we had some rentall stuff with us that day.

Maybe a bit farfetched but stil, I think it would make a nice feature! Nowadays I load the console intro the truck and load it out at the venue again. We build almost exactly the same show for a couple of bands we're doing to my patch etc. stays the same. Now when we're done with the rig I have to reprogram all my positions. Mostly this is because they are a few meters too high or too low, the pan seems to be right most of the times. Now this could be easily solved if I could create one pallet, say front of stage, and work relatively around that one. Than I'd only have to reprogram front of stage and the rest would fit in nicely! Maybe not a feature for Frog series now, but something to think about.

Yeah well, it is supposed to do so in the future, that's what I was trying to tell

Alright then, I'll try to make it for sure!

By the way: this one would be a feature request I guess, I'd like to move it, move it...

There are several topics covering that issue. It's not going to happen, at least not at Zero88. You should look into WYSIWYG, Capture Sweden, Martin showdesigner or some other software for this purpose. That way you can connect your console to your PC and the software will draw your moving lights for you. Mind you though: you'll always need some time adjusting positions! http://www.castlighting.com/ http://www.capturesweden.com/ http://www.martinshowdesigner.com/ Oh and by the way: Frog 2 has an ethernet connection which (will?) supports ArtNET and therefore connects to WYG without the need of a dongle.

Holland, so I guess the training would be @ Rolight? But is there also a Frog contest in other countries? I don't know if I'll attend the training since I can't afford a F2, but hey if there's a console to win; I don't mind driving up there!

So just signing in and not going would be enough to be entered into the competition? I'm not from England so I'll won't be able to come, how about a contest for the regular Frog Support forum users? 8) If one of us was to have a Frog 2 we could again supply other users with good info and relieve you guys from the task of answering every question

Wat ook kan is dat je per ongeluk langs je reset waarde komt. Als die bijvoorbeeld 100 is, en je fade van 80 naar 200 dan zul je daar automatisch langs komen en resetten je heads. Beetje rare heads waarop dat zo geprogrammeerd zou zijn, maar goed; het zou kunnen. Als je die stap echt met de hand erin gezet hebt moet je inderdaad even zoals Pipo zegt de stap eruit halen.

Set up the console in partial mode and read the manual about programming in partial mode. Hint: you should tag the fixtures (yellow LED blinking) you want to program.

TFT beneath the console? Hows that... that means lifting it up each time? Don't like that idea I'll get to the drawing board this weekend and will post the results here for a quick review.

I know the owner of that case, and they made it theirselves. I think it's too large, too much redundant space in there. Though the idea is pretty well thought of I wouldn't go for something like this. Also the idea of having it wheels frightens me a bit. First of all you don't really need them (it's not that heavy) and second it's going to tip over a lot faster like this, something I don't like I think it's going to be somewhat like this, but smaller and without the wheels. Thanks for mentioning though, on the one Dutch forum I couldn't tracks these photo's anymore, and I don't visit this one.

I'm looking for a design to build a new Frog case for out LeapFrog. We have two cases for both desks, but I keep on dragging the LCD and keyboard with me all the time. So the idea is to make one (slightly lager) case to fit it all in. The LCD could be mounted in the lid and I'd like the keyboard to slide beneath the console in a tray. Does anyone have a case which resembles this? And if so: could you post some pictures / drawings of it? Thanks!

Had the same thing last saturdag, though I was very very sure the patch was correct. I had some Robe's and Martins in the rig, and the Martins failed to respond after a while (they did first)... I just couldn't figure out what was wrong, since the rest of the rig was working fine and 4 mechanical problems at the same time wouldn't be an option in my opinion. I started pulling out DMX cords and inserting them again, nothing... They were completely dead. Then suddenly I thought of the reset DMX option in the Super User menu and tried that. And there you go, all of them were working again without any problem the rest of the evening. I'm still not sure what was wrong here, but it proofs the reset function is there for a reason

I'd like to see the copying functions a bit extended. I often do the lighting for a band, but the playlist is different everytime. It would be great to set the playlist in the right order before the gig starts. Now I do this by altering the "Jump" field, but that's a lot of work. I think it would be lot faster to be able to copy entire numbers (like 1, and 1.1 and 1.2 to 1.9). Then I could program 100-150 with all possible numbers, and copy them in the right order to 1-30 for the setlist of that evening. Someone else in favour for such functionality?

Nice

True, but I'd still have to program 2 things and use my brain for figuring out tagging, brightness and those things A "hold" time for fixtures would be a lot quicker; just set the time and your done. When I copy a memory to do this, It also copies the tagged fixtures. So when I'd want to change positions for instance I'd have to edit 2 memories and set the positions to match, or I'd have to edit the second one and untag the fixtures (which could lead to problems when you skip the first memory for some reason). Oh well, it was just a suggestion as the forum title says

Often I run into the problem I want my movers to have some time for moving to the next spot until they start outputting brightness. I usually copy the memory and create a first memory with the new position but without brightness, and then auto trigger it to the next one which contains the brightness for the fixtures. Now this could be solved in a better way by installing some kind of a dwell time for the fixtures. The memory would be faded in as normal but the brightness for fixtures would hold for a set time and then start fading in. (Again) maybe something for F2...