kgallen

You can program a memory as a sequence (which is I think what you want). In program mode, press and hold the Memory Type button until the LED changes to Sequence. Setup a stage picture, press Program. Press Add Step, program the next stage picture, press Program. Continue like this for all steps in your sequence. If necessary you can insert steps between already programmed steps using Add Step. The manual is available on this website if this explanation is too terse (same for MkI and MkII Alcoras): http://zero88.com/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/50/downloads See page 24 You can copy and paste individual steps (but not a whole sequence). See page 28. The direction of the chase is set when the chase is run. See page 33. Good luck. Edit: Update manual location.

Does a palette relate only to the fixture that was used to program the palette or can it be applied to any fixture (most sensibly one of the same type as was used to set it up)? I'm a bit confused by the Fixture Output screen in this respect. (Full mode, 10.4.1, FatFrog, Fixture 1,2 set as MAC600.) Program a colour palette P01 as 'red' with C:M:Y as 0:255:255 with Fixture 1 selected. Fixture Output screen as expected. Select Fixture 2 only. Select colour palette P01 and Wheel LCD says P01:P01:P01 as expected. However Fixture Output screen on monitor still says 0:0:0 when I expected it to fade to 0:255:255 (i.e. Fixture 2 assumes the colour programmed in Palette P01). No idea what a real fixture would do as I don't have any attached :-( Am I misunderstanding palettes or is the Fixture Output screen incorrect? Edit: OK, so I found this post in the Forum: http://support.zero88.com/forum/viewtopic....ette&t=3804

Hi K-Nine. Thanks for your answers and quick response!

Two questions: (1) The Frog 10.4 release notes cite FR 5544 "lock output views on display tags". What should this do or under what circumstances should it do it as my 10.4.1 Fat Frog does nothing when I do FR 5544. (2) Manual page 6-10 "Frog Screen" talks about "130 soft buttons" in "Play Memories" of "Frog Screen". So whilst I can set these up under Super User, what are they and how do I get at them on my Fat Frog? The only "Frog Screen" I know I can get at is with the "F.R.O.G. FN" button and this just allows the setting of colour etc ranges for F.R.O.G. This is all with an external monitor and keyboard attached. Thanks.

[The pictures I attached at the time have gone missing since the move to the new forum format.] Thanks for the tips on making a remote... If I've done it right, there should be a couple of pictures of my concoction below. I've based it on the HIRK-433 Hybrid Receiver module (N87BN) and 3-button key fob (RN57M) from Maplin. I've used opto-isolators (CY94C) rather than relays to trigger the remote inputs on the FatFrog (thanks Paul for the necessary electrical info). It's powered from the desk lamp socket (using a 7805 voltage regulator circuit inside the remote unit) and by modifying an XLRM-F adaptor from CPC (CN00111) the desk lamp can be mounted at the same time the remote unit is plugged in. With output and 'thru' locking DIN8 sockets for the remote connection to the FatFrog, as they say, job's-a-good-'un! By setting up the first three remote switches as 'go next', 'go 1' and 'go --' whilst focusing (on my own - sigh!) at the other end of the hall on top of a scaffold tower I can step through preset memories, return to the first or go to DBO without having to climb up and down the scaffold and walk back to the desk for each lantern! Parts List (4-channel unit): ("e.g." if I already had the component in my bits box, but I've suggested a suitable part) 1x HIRK-433 Hybrid Rx module (Maplin N87BN) 1x 3-button key fob (Maplin RN57M) 1x Flexi antenna (Maplin LL80B) 4x SFH618-2 opto isolator (Maplin CY94C) 4x 150 ohm resistor (Maplin M150R) [in series with opto anodes] 4x 100 ohm resistor (Maplin M100R) [in series with opto isolator collector] 1x Push switch (Maplin FH91Y) [Learn] 4x Green LED 5mm (e.g Maplin WL28F) [channel indication] 1x Red LED 5mm (e.g Maplin WL27E) [power] 1x 220 ohm resistor (Maplin M220R) [in series with Power LED] 1x Yellow LED 5mm (e.g. Maplin WL30H) [status] 6x 5mm LED clips (e.g Maplin YY40T) 1x DIP2 PCB switch [optional: Link1/Link2 configuration] 5x 0 ohm links (or bits of resistor leg!) For the power supply part of the circuit (preceeded by a bridge rectifier as I wasn't convinced the Desk Lamp output would be DC!) 1x 7805 Voltage regulator (e.g Maplin CH35Q) 2x 100nF ceramic capacitor 1x 22uF 63V electrolytic capacitor 1x 47uF 16V electrolytic capacitor 1x Bridge Rectifier (I used RS 261-328 but any would do!) (e.g. Maplin AQ94C) 2x 1nF ceramic capacitor [decoupling of HIRK-433 analogue and digital supplies] 1x 4.7uF 16V electrolytic capacitor [decoupling of HIRK-433 digital supply] I also used an in-line 100mA fuse. 1x XLR3M chassis plug (e.g. Maplin BW92A) 2x Locking DIN8 sockets (CPC CN00765) 2x 8-pin PCB headers [remote connections] 9x 2-pin PCB headers [LEDs, switches etc] 1x 1-pin header [aerial connection] 1x ABS project box 120mm x 100mm x 45mm (Maplin LH22Y) 7/0.2 and/or strips of rainbow ribbon cable for wiring up LEDs, switches etc heat-shrink tubing M3 and M4 screws, nuts, washers, spacers solder! To make an 8-pin 'standard analogue control cable' for connection between remote unit and FatFrog remote input: 2x Locking DIN8 in-line plugs (CPC CN00753) 8-core cable (e.g. CAT5 ethernet cable) To make a power cable from FatFrog desk lamp socket: 1x XLR3M-XLR3F (CPC CN00111) [drilled in the centre to take a piece of 2-core cable] 1x XLR3F in-line plug 2 core flexible cable I made my own single-sided PCB using dry transfers onto a piece of Maplin WF38R and using WF10L etching fluid. (Scale pdf of the layout attached to this post.) [As per the original poster, you use this information at your own risk! (But mine works nicely!)]

Before you send your Betapack2 back, check the control electronics fuse behind the back cover as it may be blown. If you need to replace it, contact the Zero88 guys unless you have a 50mA T (timedelay) fuse (and I think it is a 20mm glass fuse) or can order the appropriate part from RS/CPC etc (at about 20p!). If you bought the B2 new, then I believe a spare fuse was provided with the product. I'm assuming you've tried the dimmer in a known-good power outliet! If you then don't get the front panel LED lit maybe the Zero88 guys can make some suggestions before you send it away. If one or more of the front panel neons is lit, then an individual channel fuse is blown. These are 32x6.3mm 10A F (rapid) HRC ceramic fuses. Again a spare was provided at new or Zero88/RS can help you out.

Hi, It sounds like you know what you are doing but it may be worth checking the following: The desk requires a power supply feed from the dimmer. This is fed back along the control cable (on pin 7 of the 8-pib DIN connector). This is usually +20V. If the Level 12 has come from an installation that uses e.g. Strand dimmers which use negative voltage signalling, it may have had an inverter kit fitted in which case it will require a -20V supply. The Betapacks can be set to provide either +20V or -20V. In the Betapack1 this is a link on the PCB behind the back cover. For a Betapack2 this is a small switch on the front of the dimmer next to the 8-pin DIN socket (maybe behind a grey panel fixed with a screw). Manuals for both products are still available from the Zero88 website. In both cases there will be an LED on the front of the dimmer. If it is red then the dimmer is supplying +20V. If it is green then -20V. Check your Betapack1 and Betapack2 are showing the same colour - you should do this by turning on the dimmers _without_ the control cables connected. You should then connect the control cable from say you Betapack1 dimmer to the desk (say Ch1-6). Turn on the dimmer and see if the LED on the front of the Level 12 comes on. Repeat this with only the Betapack2. Then again with the control cable plugged into Ch7-12 of the Level 12. Repeat with the Betapack1. If in any of the combinations above the desk LED does not light, then the dimmer is providing the wrong polarity of voltage. Move the link or flick the switch on the dimmer as I have indicated above. If the Level 12 has an inverter module fitted to only one set of channels then it may be that you have to set one of your dimmers to +20V and one to -20V. Note that the desk is then using +10V signalling on one set and -10V on the other set. However both types of Betapack will autosense the control voltage polarity from the desk and work automatically. If you do ascertain that the Level 12 does have an inverter module then any user of the desk/dimmer combination will need to make sure they always connect the dimmers to the desk in the correct association. Alternatively you could remove the inverter kit, set both dimmers to +20V and plug and play any way round you want. Hope this helps.