kgallen

Hi, I have been using the v2.0.0.1 Fixture Editor. In this case, just to develop a simple fixture description for a 3-channel DMX Relay for a FatFrog v10.9.1. (The relay has duty cycle controlled by the parameter value rather than just on/off). I originally developed my fixture for a 3 relay (=3 channel) "fixture", by defining each relay as a colour attribute, hence 3 colour parameters for 3 relays at consecutive DMX addresses. I loaded this into my FatFrog and all was fine. I assigned the fixture from the ift on the floppy and used auto assign to give me DMX addresses 49,50,51 for the fixture. I then decided that it would be better to have the relays assigned one-by-one as single channel fixtures so I could have individual tag control as what the relays control are independent rather than linked as would be pan/tilt/colour on a mover. So I edited my fixture file by deleting two parameters to have a single relay as one colour parameter (I also did one having the single parameter as the brightness parameter with the same problem as follows). The fixture had a different name and was saved as a different file on the floppy. When I loaded this into the desk and assigned fixtures, even though the Fixture Editor says there is only one parameter, the DMX address assignment still wants to allocate 3 addresses for one single-parameter fixture (so it wanted to assign a total of 9 addresses for my 3 relays instead of 3 addresses as one for each of 3 assigned fixtures). So it appears the desk did not update the number of required parameters (to 1 was 3) for the fixture even though it had changed from 3 down to 1. I presume the fixture definition on disk is correct as the Fixture Editor says there is only one parameter (at the point it was saved to floppy). I created a new fixture from scratch on the Fixture Editor (instead of editing my 3 parameter fixture definition down to 1 parameter) and this worked as expected - only requiring one DMX address - when I assigned fixtures and DMX addresses. This appears to be a bug in either the fixture definition import from floppy on the FatFrog or in the file contents written out from the Fixture Editor on the PC. Tonight I'll read the floppy file back into the Fixture Editor to exclude the latter! I was creating a fixture definition for one of these in case you're interested: http://www.dmxprojects.com/projects_dmx_relay.html Regards, Kevin

Ted, You may be better off setting the address on the lighting fixtures to somewhere above A048, say A100 and A109. This is because the conventional fixtures will probably occupy addresses 1 to 48. When you go into Super User to patch the moving lights, they will be at the bottom of the list after the conventional channels, which you should see are already assign to channels 1 through 48.

This bug appears to be fixed in 10.9. Thanks guys

Hi, On a FatFrog in Full (NOT Partial) mode I am having some problems with programmed chases with generics (no movers) when played back from a normal programmed cue stack with the Go button. Using 10.8, if I do a run-time override of a chase modifier (e.g. Attack) for the currently output sequence, then sequences subsequently played (with Go) have the wrong chase modifier - wrong in that it isn't the programmed setting. This is when doing a simple run-time override rather than an F3-based select and pickup (no need, only one chase running). I have back-tracked the desk OS to 10.4 and cannot reproduce this behaviour; I can change run-time chase modifiers at will and the next chase will revert to the programmed setting as expected. I have played with this a number of times - swapping the desk OS between 10.4 and 10.8. It seems that 10.4 always behaves and with 10.8 you can induce the behaviour described above.

For the record, I have also had the external keypad numerics stop responding during a show, using 10.8.1 on a FatFrog. As above, normal behavior returns after a reboot. I don't recall this ever happening using 10.4.

Dave, I don't believe that pulling the sub down to 0 is supposed to halt the movement effects or brightness. This seems to be an enhancement in the 10.8 software release (although you don't say what version you are using). See FR 5422 in the 10.8 release notes here: http://support.zero88.com/main/en/download/282 Regards, Kevin

...but then I couldn't reproduce this behaviour... But I think I understand what is going on now: If I untag a parameter by doing Wheel Group+Wheel down then the parameter becomes untagged (this I knew). But the F1+Wheel Group seems to be toggling the fixtures *LCD* screen between the equivalent of Fixtures Output screen and Fixtures Output Tags screen, which I though were monitor-only features. The LED in the Wheel Group button lights when the LCD is showing the "tags" screen. Note during all of this, the Beamshape Palette screen was locked to the monitor (and never changed).

Fat Frog 10.4.1 I have 4 MAC500 fixtures configured on the FatFrog. With fixtures selected, holding F1 and a quick click of the Wheel Group button toggles the parameter values between --- and their current value (palette number or literal DMX value). This happens whether or not I have a palette screen locked to the monitor. Q: Is this really untagging/tagging these parameters? The yellow LEDs do not change state (if they were flashing they stay flashing, if they were steady, they stay steady). Fixtures were selected (red LEDs on). First show with movers coming up...!

From your description, it looks like the fault is affecting multiple faders. This may suggest it is an ADC reference voltage problem or a 0V problem rather than a broken fader - unless you know the desk has been used in a very dusty environment where multiple faders could be very dirty. There is a fader test mode on the desk; hold F1 whilst the desk boots, channel flash buttons then select various pages of fader test. If you can get into the test mode then that may help Keith diagnose the problem on your desk, since an ADC/0V fault will probably correlate with a group of faders based on the hardware design. Hope this can get you going on debug before Keith has a chance to help you out...

You can program a memory as a sequence (which is I think what you want). In program mode, press and hold the Memory Type button until the LED changes to Sequence. Setup a stage picture, press Program. Press Add Step, program the next stage picture, press Program. Continue like this for all steps in your sequence. If necessary you can insert steps between already programmed steps using Add Step. The manual is available on this website if this explanation is too terse (same for MkI and MkII Alcoras): http://zero88.com/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/List/Index/50/downloads See page 24 You can copy and paste individual steps (but not a whole sequence). See page 28. The direction of the chase is set when the chase is run. See page 33. Good luck. Edit: Update manual location.

Does a palette relate only to the fixture that was used to program the palette or can it be applied to any fixture (most sensibly one of the same type as was used to set it up)? I'm a bit confused by the Fixture Output screen in this respect. (Full mode, 10.4.1, FatFrog, Fixture 1,2 set as MAC600.) Program a colour palette P01 as 'red' with C:M:Y as 0:255:255 with Fixture 1 selected. Fixture Output screen as expected. Select Fixture 2 only. Select colour palette P01 and Wheel LCD says P01:P01:P01 as expected. However Fixture Output screen on monitor still says 0:0:0 when I expected it to fade to 0:255:255 (i.e. Fixture 2 assumes the colour programmed in Palette P01). No idea what a real fixture would do as I don't have any attached :-( Am I misunderstanding palettes or is the Fixture Output screen incorrect? Edit: OK, so I found this post in the Forum: http://support.zero88.com/forum/viewtopic....ette&t=3804

Hi K-Nine. Thanks for your answers and quick response!

Two questions: (1) The Frog 10.4 release notes cite FR 5544 "lock output views on display tags". What should this do or under what circumstances should it do it as my 10.4.1 Fat Frog does nothing when I do FR 5544. (2) Manual page 6-10 "Frog Screen" talks about "130 soft buttons" in "Play Memories" of "Frog Screen". So whilst I can set these up under Super User, what are they and how do I get at them on my Fat Frog? The only "Frog Screen" I know I can get at is with the "F.R.O.G. FN" button and this just allows the setting of colour etc ranges for F.R.O.G. This is all with an external monitor and keyboard attached. Thanks.

[The pictures I attached at the time have gone missing since the move to the new forum format.] Thanks for the tips on making a remote... If I've done it right, there should be a couple of pictures of my concoction below. I've based it on the HIRK-433 Hybrid Receiver module (N87BN) and 3-button key fob (RN57M) from Maplin. I've used opto-isolators (CY94C) rather than relays to trigger the remote inputs on the FatFrog (thanks Paul for the necessary electrical info). It's powered from the desk lamp socket (using a 7805 voltage regulator circuit inside the remote unit) and by modifying an XLRM-F adaptor from CPC (CN00111) the desk lamp can be mounted at the same time the remote unit is plugged in. With output and 'thru' locking DIN8 sockets for the remote connection to the FatFrog, as they say, job's-a-good-'un! By setting up the first three remote switches as 'go next', 'go 1' and 'go --' whilst focusing (on my own - sigh!) at the other end of the hall on top of a scaffold tower I can step through preset memories, return to the first or go to DBO without having to climb up and down the scaffold and walk back to the desk for each lantern! Parts List (4-channel unit): ("e.g." if I already had the component in my bits box, but I've suggested a suitable part) 1x HIRK-433 Hybrid Rx module (Maplin N87BN) 1x 3-button key fob (Maplin RN57M) 1x Flexi antenna (Maplin LL80B) 4x SFH618-2 opto isolator (Maplin CY94C) 4x 150 ohm resistor (Maplin M150R) [in series with opto anodes] 4x 100 ohm resistor (Maplin M100R) [in series with opto isolator collector] 1x Push switch (Maplin FH91Y) [Learn] 4x Green LED 5mm (e.g Maplin WL28F) [channel indication] 1x Red LED 5mm (e.g Maplin WL27E) [power] 1x 220 ohm resistor (Maplin M220R) [in series with Power LED] 1x Yellow LED 5mm (e.g. Maplin WL30H) [status] 6x 5mm LED clips (e.g Maplin YY40T) 1x DIP2 PCB switch [optional: Link1/Link2 configuration] 5x 0 ohm links (or bits of resistor leg!) For the power supply part of the circuit (preceeded by a bridge rectifier as I wasn't convinced the Desk Lamp output would be DC!) 1x 7805 Voltage regulator (e.g Maplin CH35Q) 2x 100nF ceramic capacitor 1x 22uF 63V electrolytic capacitor 1x 47uF 16V electrolytic capacitor 1x Bridge Rectifier (I used RS 261-328 but any would do!) (e.g. Maplin AQ94C) 2x 1nF ceramic capacitor [decoupling of HIRK-433 analogue and digital supplies] 1x 4.7uF 16V electrolytic capacitor [decoupling of HIRK-433 digital supply] I also used an in-line 100mA fuse. 1x XLR3M chassis plug (e.g. Maplin BW92A) 2x Locking DIN8 sockets (CPC CN00765) 2x 8-pin PCB headers [remote connections] 9x 2-pin PCB headers [LEDs, switches etc] 1x 1-pin header [aerial connection] 1x ABS project box 120mm x 100mm x 45mm (Maplin LH22Y) 7/0.2 and/or strips of rainbow ribbon cable for wiring up LEDs, switches etc heat-shrink tubing M3 and M4 screws, nuts, washers, spacers solder! To make an 8-pin 'standard analogue control cable' for connection between remote unit and FatFrog remote input: 2x Locking DIN8 in-line plugs (CPC CN00753) 8-core cable (e.g. CAT5 ethernet cable) To make a power cable from FatFrog desk lamp socket: 1x XLR3M-XLR3F (CPC CN00111) [drilled in the centre to take a piece of 2-core cable] 1x XLR3F in-line plug 2 core flexible cable I made my own single-sided PCB using dry transfers onto a piece of Maplin WF38R and using WF10L etching fluid. (Scale pdf of the layout attached to this post.) [As per the original poster, you use this information at your own risk! (But mine works nicely!)]

Before you send your Betapack2 back, check the control electronics fuse behind the back cover as it may be blown. If you need to replace it, contact the Zero88 guys unless you have a 50mA T (timedelay) fuse (and I think it is a 20mm glass fuse) or can order the appropriate part from RS/CPC etc (at about 20p!). If you bought the B2 new, then I believe a spare fuse was provided with the product. I'm assuming you've tried the dimmer in a known-good power outliet! If you then don't get the front panel LED lit maybe the Zero88 guys can make some suggestions before you send it away. If one or more of the front panel neons is lit, then an individual channel fuse is blown. These are 32x6.3mm 10A F (rapid) HRC ceramic fuses. Again a spare was provided at new or Zero88/RS can help you out.

Hi, It sounds like you know what you are doing but it may be worth checking the following: The desk requires a power supply feed from the dimmer. This is fed back along the control cable (on pin 7 of the 8-pib DIN connector). This is usually +20V. If the Level 12 has come from an installation that uses e.g. Strand dimmers which use negative voltage signalling, it may have had an inverter kit fitted in which case it will require a -20V supply. The Betapacks can be set to provide either +20V or -20V. In the Betapack1 this is a link on the PCB behind the back cover. For a Betapack2 this is a small switch on the front of the dimmer next to the 8-pin DIN socket (maybe behind a grey panel fixed with a screw). Manuals for both products are still available from the Zero88 website. In both cases there will be an LED on the front of the dimmer. If it is red then the dimmer is supplying +20V. If it is green then -20V. Check your Betapack1 and Betapack2 are showing the same colour - you should do this by turning on the dimmers _without_ the control cables connected. You should then connect the control cable from say you Betapack1 dimmer to the desk (say Ch1-6). Turn on the dimmer and see if the LED on the front of the Level 12 comes on. Repeat this with only the Betapack2. Then again with the control cable plugged into Ch7-12 of the Level 12. Repeat with the Betapack1. If in any of the combinations above the desk LED does not light, then the dimmer is providing the wrong polarity of voltage. Move the link or flick the switch on the dimmer as I have indicated above. If the Level 12 has an inverter module fitted to only one set of channels then it may be that you have to set one of your dimmers to +20V and one to -20V. Note that the desk is then using +10V signalling on one set and -10V on the other set. However both types of Betapack will autosense the control voltage polarity from the desk and work automatically. If you do ascertain that the Level 12 does have an inverter module then any user of the desk/dimmer combination will need to make sure they always connect the dimmers to the desk in the correct association. Alternatively you could remove the inverter kit, set both dimmers to +20V and plug and play any way round you want. Hope this helps.