kgallen

It’s in their manual page so I hope so! My email to that address hasn’t bounced at least!

@van den abbeele Eric Eric, you must know the process by now surely, you're an experienced/established FLX user. Just email (below) Zero88 the PDF manuals, with the DMX map, for each fixture and ask them to build a fixture profile and add to the next library. If you've got one you've built for your own use, then let them know they just need to build for the library release. If you need one building for you for an immediate need then let them know you'd like them to email back to you (and add to the library for the future). I've done this recently for a fixture - I built it myself for immediate use, but sent them the manual and asked them to build "properly" for the next library release. I sent them my ITF file from the Fixture Tools in case that gave them a head start. https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/patching/add-fixtures/missing-fixtures FixtureSupport@zero88.com

I had a meeting with the director last night to put together a lighting cue list (I’m panic called in as they’ve been let down last minute and nothing is prepared!). The cue list is pretty long. I think I’m going to chicken out and programme on my full FLX - because I know I can be faster with syntax and I’ve access to eg Lee Filters - than I would be on an FLX S where I’ll feel like I’m programming with an arm tied behind my back. Jon has confirmed that the FLX showfile should run perfectly well on the S24 (obviously staying within the S24’s capabilities) because some other chap will actually op the shows using their S24 after I’ve done a handover at the dress rehearsal. Let’s hope that actually works otherwise I’ll be in double trouble!

1. Check you are using the software for the console not PhantomZerOS and not the "USB Creator". 2. Download again and transfer again to the USB stick or try a different USB stick (I've had one occassion where the upgrade started but would not complete - using a different USB stick fixed it).

You can check the list of current library fixtures in the list below. If it's not there, request it using the instructions posted on your other thread. https://vari-lite.s3.eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/software-firmware/ZerOS-Library-4.5-List-of-Fixtures.csv You can find this list for each release by following the ‘ZerOS Software’ link at the top of this Forum (or in the Forum menu if on a phone).

See: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/patching/add-fixtures/missing-fixtures

Hi Charlie - sorry for my earlier flippancy! You could email support@zero88.com and ask. There are ‘rules’ for beta testers about console experience, feedback and forum activity. This is because Zero88 don’t want to grant beta access to casual users or inexperienced users who can’t effectively engage in the beta testing process and could otherwise become a support burden. You're a relatively new user - and of course very welcome - but you might have to argue your case so early on to get beta access unless you’re otherwise an established customer known to Zero88 folk. Hope that’s more helpful!

Here: https://www.reddit.com/r/lightingdesign/s/aZnhvIMl8Q Hopefully they’ll get in contact…

By special invitation 😉

Hi, Move on Dark is not directly related to the use of SmartTag, more what information is recorded in each cue. However SmartTag enabled can be useful to support Move on Dark when the console is in the Tracking enabled mode. When your programming becomes more advanced, you can disable SmartTag entirely or for certain Record operations. Move on Dark relies on lights not having an instruction in certain cues, when the console can perform the Move on Dark action.

Ah useful, thanks! The ‘Z’ window is where the daemons live so I don’t go in there that often 🤣

That’s my challenge! I’m so tempted to take my FLX in so I can bash syntax then load the showfile into the S24 for their op to run the show. But I’m going to bite the bullet and use the S24 - especially as I’m aiming to get my local community hall to get an S24 and I’ll have to support users on it, so I’d better learn it! Thanks for the palette name info - found this along with how to delete a cue in the manual this morning. It seems Setup isn’t always used for naming (for cues you tap the name box) and for Delete cue you have to hit the Z key to get up a number pad - not tapping the cue in the cue list as I was trying! I think I need to create some additional labels for both the desk and keyboard! I was surprised ‘N’ on an external keyboard doesn’t do Name as it does on FLX. Given the FLX is now discontinued maybe some of the ‘advanced’ features will creep onto the Sxx - processor power and UI allowing Still haven’t found a syntax line coming up in any window so I guess you have to type it blind and see what happens! 😆 I’m getting there…! Cheers!

Thanks David. I guess that’s a good possibility - I had engaged Programmer Time (at 5s) when playing around with it. I guess I’ve never noticed my own FLX doing this! Today I put 7.14.3 onto it and the Clear LED seems to go off straight away. But that could well be because Programmer Time is now off after the effective factory reset! Had a decent session with the S24 tonight. But still need to hit the manual to find out how some things are performed compared to the FLX! At least I had a USB keyboard plugged in which helped and I did resist using syntax - mostly! Whilst I can name Cues, I’ve not worked out yet how to name palettes or how to Delete individual cues without using the keyboard!

First time using FLX S, I own for many years the "full" FLX myself so that's what I'm used to, syntax, external monitor and all that. I'm helping another group out at short notice (isn't that always the way), they have an FLX S24 running 7.14. It looks like newer desk hardware as it has the two 5-pin XLR DMX sockets (I believe initially the FLX S had one 5-pin and one 3-pin). I'm having an issue where the LED in the CLEAR button is staying lit, even when I've done CLEAR-CLEAR and there is nothing shown selected. Sometimes after a while (maybe 10 seconds) the LED will go out on its own but not always. Is it that these lower-end consoles are already really laggy on their UI? If I go into SETUP and come out again the CLEAR LED will extinguish. I don't see this listed as a bug fix in the 7.14.1/.2/.3 release notes. Is this a known issue still? It's not a big issue but I'm in to educate their folk on programming the desk and this issue is kinda annoying... I'm going to propose loading 7.14.3 onto it - and hoping this doesn't brick their desk otherwise I'll be in big trouble! Otherwise, if any of the experienced folk on here have hints and tips or gotchas for a full-FLX syntax user moving over to the "baby" console, they would be much appreciated! Yes I've grabbed a USB keyboard and will try and learn more of the syntax keys that are supported, but probably I can't use that for tutoring their folk! I don't see syntax lines coming up on any internal monitor desktop, is that expected? Rigging an external Monitor over a small LAN isn't going to be practical. Yes I've been watching Edward's FLX S specific videos! It's payback time folks 😉 Cheers, Kevin

e.g. in FLX S24 Hardware Introduction

Hi and welcome! I'll have a bash at this question, but other users who do "busking" will likely have other tips. The FLX consoles are fully capable of what you want to do. The key to your requirement is for the programming process to only record in a given playback/cue, those parameters you want it to control. This allows other playbacks, say colour or position, to be triggered on top and to only affect those you desire. Your programming style will need to use the "Tracking" mode of the console and for you to avoid using Snapshot during record. SmartTag enabled will be the most useful setting to start, but as you become a more advanced user of the console, you might start setting SmartTag disabled for some record operations. I realise you have programmed a show, but your requirements are best explored by starting off with some basic programming whilst you get the hang of it. From a programming perspective, colour, beam, position are all interchangable. Any examples you do with colour should work using the same procedure when applied to position. Let's assume you have a baseline show recorded on your master playback (the one the GO button steps through). Say on one other playback, say Playback 1, you want that fader to change some lights to red. Clear the programmer with CLEAR-CLEAR Select the lights you want to change to red with the fixture select buttons. Turn them on to some reasonable brightness so you can see what you're doing. Say 80%. Change their colour to red using colour palettes or the colour picker. Don't change anything else on these fixtures, otherwise you will "Tag" other parameters you didn't want to change. Tap Record and then the Playback 1 button. Since you want this playback to control colour only, press Setup and tap the Playback 1 button. Select the option "Fader Controls:" to Colour. There are other settings that we should check, like Release on Lower is enabled, but I am going to assume they are still at the desk default. Do CLEAR-CLEAR and then get your master playback controlling the lights (GO) so you have lights lit. If you then push up Playback 1 fader (remember to change the faders to Playback mode) then those lights (if they are already lit) should crossfade to red. When you pull Playback 1 fader back down to zero, those lights should go back to the colour they were as programmed in that cue of the master playback. Note that since we set Playback 1 to "Fader Controls: Colour", pushing up this fader won't light lights that were not on from your master playback. If you want that, then Fader Controls: Intensity is what you want for that setting. Then the fader will control the intensity but the lights will snap to red at about 5% fader position (although you can change this time in the Playback settings). Hopefully that is enough to get you going... and hopefully I got most of the above right and didn't forget an important step. The manual is here, probably this section is most applicable: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/cues-playbacks Edward has done lots of training videos and there is at least one that will cover this. I'll see if I can find the most appropriate one and come back here and link it for you... This is probably the specific one I was thinking of, but it's possible you will need to do some of the others to get an understanding of wider console a little more and maybe the terminology: Lots of FLX training videos here: https://www.youtube.com/@zero88/videos

When do you expect the zoom to close? There is no opportunity between Cue 1 and Cue 2 for the console to use move on dark to prepare your zoom to small for Cue 2. Hence when Cue 2 is run you see the zoom close live, because when else could it happen? If you had a cue stack that looked something like this: Cue 1 PAR#1 full and zoom open Cue 2 PAR#1 goes to dark and maybe other stuff happens Cue 3 PAR#1 full and zoom small Then after Cue 2 executes when PAR#1 has gone dark, the console can use move on dark to prepare the zoom at small for when Cue 3 is executed. When PAR#1 lights in Cue 3 then the zoom will already be at small, so you won't see the zoom move live.

The Zoom should only move if you changed it, regardless of recording style. If the zoom is moving when you haven't changed it then I would test one fixture in isolation, then see if others of the same make/model do the same in isolation. I have some budget fixtures with zoom and they don't move the zoom unless I programme a change.

Hi. You need to be recording in Tracking mode and don't use Snapshot. If you have SmartTag enabled, then if you just adjust the parameters you want to change for a cue, then when you record, the console will only record the parameters you changed (see Tagging in the manual). Zoom will only be recorded if you changed Zoom when setting up the cue.

We've all been quietly thinking the same! Some ballpark timescale would be useful so folk can plan, but I guess at the moment with changes to the team, I'm happy to cut Jon some significant slack! I guess we're all quite interested in the channel count upgrade which I suspect is a very minor change to the config of the software, but probably other new features are being rolled in too which requires development and testing effort which has been impacted recently.

I assume you have a USB connection between monitor and console in addition to the DVI-D lead. Have you done the Calibration step on the console? See the "Calibration" section: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/setup/settings/displays

@Edward Z88 Does this work on FLX too? (Shift key then keypad?). Thanks!

Oh... 😞 But congratulations! You chaps have had admirable sticking power over the years and many changes at what "was" Zero88. I thank you for your support, help and professional friendship over these years and wish you all the best for the future! Hopefully you are staying in the wider industry so might still "see you around"? I do seriously fear for the brand now though. It would be quite understandable that Jon might consider his future with the loss of several of the core "team". I would but hope he choses to stick around but it must weigh on his mind. Kindest, Kevin

Try turning RDM (RigSync) off and see if they still blink. Some fixtures don't decode the "packet type" field at the start of the DMX stream. It is 00 for DMX and some other value for RDM packets. If the fixture doesn't check for the 00 then it can interpret RDM packets as DMX packets. Because RDM packets are relatively short, this usually only affects fixtures that have DMX addresses quite low down. I don't remember the exact value, but fixtures with addresses over 256 don't suffer this even if they don't decode the packet type field for the required 00. If you re-address your problem fixtures higher up the DMX address range, they might behave. If they do, it's because they have this issue (they are not truly DMX compliant).

Hi. For me, as @Tassal. The particular product is a "home badged" product (you can see Thomann's name on the rear on one of the later photos). Thomann home-brand products are usually well selected. And if you're not happy you can send it back pretty easily. This is not intended to be an advert for them, but I think once you use them you'll rarely go anywhere else. Which reminds me, I've got one of their own-name LED floods that has gone faulty. I bet I'm out of the 3 year warranty by now though... aha, it's not. You see that 3 year warranty is quite a thing...