kgallen

Hopefully Edward/Jon/Keith will give you some other details. I didn't find anything about the battery in the user manual. Not sure if there are 1 or more. Looks like 2 screws each side? Lift the lid slowly as I bet there are ribbon cables from the top panel to main PCB mounted in the base.

Ah... 'twas you that bought it! Nice one! This webpage will also probably help since it includes a document on how to get inside which I presume will be part of the solution! https://www.zero88.com/control/frog2

Agreed the old KB was awful to use. But the content was gold (when you could find it). Jon's full time job the last couple of weeks - calming down the old-guard! 🤣

ps Sorry we've hijacked the thread but I think it was answered fully!

Hey... I want an Alcora Mk1 picture! With analogue output kit fitted 😛 ...my first own-purchase Zero88 product. The first time we ever got a bonus from work and I blew the lot on an Alcora Mk1 with analogue kit. Bought (new) from @iank99 at CTS in July 2000 😀. The Alcora had only been out a couple of months (so forgive me if it was 1999 not 2000, but I think it was 2000). I still have the CTS receipt on yellow carbon-copy fan-fold paper 🤩. I bet @iank99 has some stories there!

This is a very good point Mac... Edward, how to we get access to the ex-KB articles and other collateral that's been created over the years? How do we fix these legacy forum links that are all now 404? I didn't try very hard (like a "typical" user/customer) (*) but I took a wander from the zero88 home page into the support section, to see if finding these articles is obvious. It would seem not. Yes, the new website is very flashy and FLX shouts at you, but as "predicted" when we previewed the new site, the simple substance and access to the key user information has been lost. How do we fix this? Kevin * Actually I tried a bit harder now and I still don't find this info, I'm just going round in circles on the website... I can find user manuals now - although not down the support rabbit-hole - but what about the KB stuff?

I'm astounded that a desk of this tender age can have dirty faders that bad. What environment is this desk used in? Also, I'm not sure "contact cleaner" is that wise for carbon track potentiometers??? This will strip the faders of their lubrication and is thus a downward spiral regards reliability and (electrical) noise.

For clarity I’m not suggesting there is anything wrong with the Go button on FLX - the double width non-clicky cherry key is the correct choice. I’ve used my ‘technique’ (such as it is!) on all consoles from all manufacturers. I do the same for any go/play button.

My technique is to ‘stay away’ from the button by resting my two forefingers on the case below the Go, and only move them up to click then move away again. Hovering over the button is fraught with danger!

I'll second what Ian says. I've seen some impressive conventional plus mover-based shows done on a Fat Frog (far more than I was ever able to achieve!). I used my Fat Frog for 10 years but gaining many more LED lights and movers I upgraded to an FLX. I can't imagine now moving back to the FF with such rigs. Fat Frog partial mode drove me to drink! 😄 Amongst many things with ZerOS you get move on dark and tracking functionality that just works there in the background. If you can't stretch to the full FLX then the FLX S24 and S48 have most of these advanced features with a UI that will be a straightforward migration for you from FF. The "big" FLX in addition offers command line programming which is a big help for programming efficiency if you have non-trivial rig sizes. Good luck! Kevin

Hi, The previous thread in this section of the forum is the same question. In particular see the link to the Zero88 article that describes how to do this: This is probably the most common question on this Forum!

Are you going via a USB hub or is the key directly in the console? If a USB hub then a powered version is recommended.

You need to ‘separate parameters’ on colour since you are programming a hard ‘blue=0’ in the red playback. By default, Colour will tag all colour parameters when you adjust one, so when you adjust red then blue green white etc will also get tagged. If you do SETUP COLOUR there should be an option ‘Keep Parameters Separate’ (or something like that). For Colour it defaults to No, change it to Yes. Then when you adjust red only red will get tagged so only red recorded. If David has linked the article I think he has then this should be explained in more detail there. HTH

I think the situation you have is when all of your playbacks release, the desk is looking for what to do with the lights, and there is nothing left controlling them, so in this situation it reverts to the default which is Home and that is usually (with a "correctly" constructed fixture), on at max in white. Wait for Edward to correct me if this is wrong, but I think you need to edit the Home for the fixtures of interest. This is done by programming your fixtures - in your case intensity=0, and RECORD HOME (with SmartTag off, since you want to record that zero intensity). I believe this is in accordance with Edward's comment here:

Both I would have thought. I suspect much testing of code is done on Phantom...

I'm not sure that's really how the programmer is intended to work and I think changing that could muddle the use model - as far as I understand it, the programmer is a staging post for assembling the data for a cue. I realise you can busk in a crude sense with the programmer - in that you can get a live look, even timed with Programmer Time, but I don't thinks it's seriously intended for actual live "booked-and-paid-for" busking use. I sympathise, but I'm not sure that would be the right sort of update. Still it's not my call! Is there a specific reason you use the programmer like this - is it that you get access to more variables for your look than having a few pages of playbacks/submasters? Don't you find it clumsy/clunky to get out of the "programmer state" and get the rig back under control in a "professional" way?

Hmm yea if your live stage state is from the programmer then maybe you are in trouble. Let's see if Edward says your approach is viable if you're using programmer state live. Sorry I can't be any more help!

Turn off SmartTag when you record. Make sure you only changed the colour attributes to red. Ensure Setup on the button says Release on Lower. I usually use a UDK for something like this - usually a strobe for me using RGBxx LEDs. Same process.

I like that way of thinking about it - building blocks vs looks.

This thread might also help with your two questions. There are quite a few questions around this topic, so worth taking a look at other forum posts. This topic tends to be the headline subject, so should be quite easy to spot. Also the online manual is a useful resource: https://zero88.com/manuals/zeros/cues-playbacks/record-options/snapshot-smarttag?filter=2

Multicell fixtures are properly implemented in the next ZerOS release which is in beta testing now. In the ZerOS you have you will find that the multicell fixture is patched as separate fixtures for each cell plus a fixture with the common stuff. With appropriate selection you should be able to get effects to run across them (which is why the current scheme is to patch cells separately).

Hi. The root of your issues is probably SmartTag. As you are trying to set up a range of playbacks with only very specific information recorded you will need to turn off SmartTag in the Record options. Simplistically with SmartTag on, you will only record information for fixtures with non-zero intensity. This is probably the root of your comment ‘chasers always seem to map the intensity’. When you turn off SmartTag, only the information that is ‘tagged’ will get recorded (tagging usually occurs when you ‘adjust’ something). Further this means you can record colour/position etc without needing a non-zero intensity and also you don't record the intensity. You might need to click some other buttons in the Record options to say what you do want to record - because you will probably need intensity "up" to see what you're doing with colour/position etc, but you won't want that intensity recorded to the playback. Hope this gives you enough hints to get you started as it seems otherwise you know what you’re doing. In short you should be able to achieve what you need relatively easily once you get your settings and mind around it! Edward will probably give a more comprehensive reply tomorrow. Kevin

No worries, let us know how you get on and if you need more help. Can't have Frogs lying around not getting used... Kevin

Hi, As you already have a *Frog there is probably nothing new I could tell you. So: @iank99 will be your man. He lives in Coventry but worked for Central Theatre Supplies in Hall Green for many years. He will be able to check the desk over and if any repairs are needed he will may be able to get spares from Zero88 as he's an authorised service centre. If not, come back here and we'll see what we can suggest... (I have a Fat Frog, although it's been in hibernation for a few years...)

https://zero88.com/manuals/zeros/controlling-fixtures/max-level Select fixture(s). DELETE HOME (max level)