kgallen

@Sape Of course! So sorry! 😍

Hi @Sape Did you get the schematics? Some of your questions - references to the "new" schematics/PCB layout sent by Edward. To confirm, for 50Hz UK, K3 is fitted, K2 is not fitted. The ramp signal is present on IC1 pins 1,5,9,13 if you wanted to check that now you have updated service information. The cable will act as a low pass filter, will pick up a lot of electrical noise and your earth connection on your 'scope channel will be a long way from an ideal reference point for the measurement (a lot of inductance in the ground path). Probably the waveform doesn't look great! But it sounds like you've got things working a lot better after re-calibrating the pre-heat. The dimmer is designed to drive this cabling. The waveform on a 'scope at that point probably looks terrible, but I'm sure a 500W (etc) tungsten lamp will sort that out and be perfectly happy! Cabling as mentioned in previous post. Sounds like there is an issue with the ramp generator circuit. When you say LEDs above, I'm assuming you mean the output LEDs (L1, L2) that are closest to the test switches. What about the middle LED (L3)? Is that behaving similarly to that LED on other modules? This would help narrow down if the circuit fault is before or after IC1. If L3 is not operating as other modules, then maybe IC2 is at fault. If L3 is ok, but L1/L2 (plus the lamps) are not good, then possibly IC1 is at fault. If these ICs are in sockets, then replacement should be easy. They wont be expensive. For example: https://cpc.farnell.com/texas-instruments/lm324n/ic-op-amp-quadruple/dp/SC17193?st=lm324 To diagnose more you would need to use your scope to look around the ramp circuit (VR1 is the pre-heat adjustment pot). On the new schematics this is the circuit lower left if L3 is bad or upper left if L3 is good but L1/L2 bad. First however, it might be worth moving VR1 back and forwards a few times in case the carbon track is dirty, then re-try your pre-heat calibration. I think at this point you are now the official Rackmaster service agent, as you will know this unit inside and out!!! Regards, Kevin

Hi @Sape Just to quickly answer a couple of your questions: I believe you are talking about the distribution of dimmed mains power to a tungsten lantern hang - i.e. cables from the dimmer outputs to (say) 15A sockets on your internally wired bars. I which case I would expect this to be something like H05 or better H07 TRS (toughened rubber sheathed) 3-core cables with 1.5mm^2 or 2.5mm^2 cores. No, this doesn't need to be twisted pairs or shielded. If you have any DMX distribution - and I don't think you do, other than lighting desk to demux (or dimmers), then that should be DMX rated cable of 110 ohms characteristic impedance, twisted pairs and shielded (note: sometimes Cat5 ethernet cable is used in fixed installs). Any analogue control distribution (from demux to dimmers) would be 6, 7 or 8 core signal cable with a braid or shield. This does sound like a control circuit issue within the dimmer, possibly the channel opto has failed or is deteriorated. I suggest we request to @Edward Z88 for a copy of the correct set of schematics for your units. Maybe you could share on here some details - exact model number and any PCB numbers and PCB version numbers you can identify from your units. Then we can attempt to debug the circuits. If Edward is not happy to share them with you then maybe he'll share with me and I can try and point you in the appropriate directions to debug. Probably however you should be able to identify the opto isolators on the different units and check around them (beware mains voltages on the output side!!!) from the information you have and translating this accross to the newer/older units. Let me know if you want help interpreting the schematics you have. Just to confirm if there is any doubt, I'm not a Zero88 employee or service tech - I'm "just a bloke on the 'net"... Regards, Kevin

Hi! Thanks for the schematic. Your plan seems appropriate. Yes Filter 1 and Filter 2 should be large (maybe 2" diameter or more) wire-wound inductors (you should find small versions inside a domestic thyristor dimmer). The diac I mention is part of the opto-isolator, IC4, IC5. They are probably socketed. Given these are two-channel modules I would trace back on them comparing channel-for-channel as you go. Also confirm the indicated waveform at the TP and the negative pulse output on pin 1 of IC2 as you propose. If both of the channels of an output board are suspected then check same circuit points on a known good board. This should be relatively easy to debug by doing channel-by-channel compare and identify if the issue is in the common control section IC1,2,3 and associated passives especially capacitors and diodes, or on the output side, IC4,5, D15-18. The LEDs L1,2,3 should also give you some info, so again compare channel to channel. Preheat is R11. I compared with a Betapack 2 schematic and it's largely an identical circuit. Also make sure switches like S3, S4 aren't incorrectly set or oxidised. They look like channel test buttons. I'm not sure what S2 is for - it looks like a jumper from the PCB layout. Check these are all in the same position, especially on channels that are showing different behaviour. I'm not familiar with the 0-4.3mA current drive signal, I've not come across this before. Probably R28,29,30 are not fitted if it's not supported. IC2 is there for other circuit uses (it's a quad op-amp, as is IC3). Kevin ps I found a manual here if of any use: https://www.theatrecrafts.com/archive/documents/Rack-660-Manual.pdf

Have you tried: Setup+Playback->Set Fader To: Colour

The triac will trigger part way through the sine wave so effectively the first part of the rise is cut off. The output inductor controls the rise time of this potentially sharp switch-on. This assumes the triggering circuit, and the diac in-line with the triac gate are functioning correctly. So I wouldn't rule out the control side just yet, particularly with so many channels looking bad. If a one-off channel was bad then I'd immediately suspect the diac, triac or inductor. Multiple channels looking bad in similar ways points more likely to a common problem rather than faults of the same type in the discrete components of multiple independent output stages. Probing this is dangerous because of the mains voltages, but where competence and safety allows I would take a look at the inputs to the diacs on each channel and compare good and bad channels. Then I would work backwards to the opto-isolator and then onto the low voltage side of the control circuit. Unless you think there are several different faults you don't need to debug on all 36 channels, just take a Rackmaster which has a good and a bad channel and compare step by step back from the diac. If you can upload the relevant page(s) of the schematic here that would be useful to give more specific guidance. Let us know. Regards, Kevin

Interesting. I have no answer other than cogitation wondering if this is an issue on the control side - in which case probably this would probably manifest on pairs of channels (1/2, 3/4, 5/6), or the output inductor which controls the rate of current change and hence the rise and fall times. However since they are "simply" a coil of wire, are very reliable, don't deteriorate in value over time like caps do (yes, the enamel could deteriorate), and would manifest on one channel, not across a range of channels. It's with questions like this that we'll really miss Keith and Ian... I hope you get an answer or with further debug identify what the issue is. I'm interested in the answer either way.

So what steps have you tried to debug this and what did you find? What outputs are you using from the desk - just DMX or something more advanced like ArtNet or sACN? Have you connected any of the DMX lights directly to the desk to confirm operation of the light? Have you shortened your DMX network to determine if there are any cable faults? Has anyone else had access to the console and might have changed the patch? Have you confirmed the patch has the lights in your rig patched and they are at the right DMX address? Did you update firmware on any item of equipment in your network?

Ramblings of the insane...! I've had a good ole dig around on this subject and I can't find much at all. Clearly looking in the wrong place. There is a minimal keyboard map in the 7.9.2 Solution manual but I've not found anything else. In a release note for 7.10 it talks about Copy-to and Move-to but that is FLX only. Sorry, I'm drawing a bit of a blank - and not knowing Solution at all really isn't helping (I went from Fat Frog to FLX). If I come across anything before Edward posts, I'll offer up some more drivel. Kevin

Maybe this was the thread, but I don't know how directly relevant it is. Might have a few things for you to check/compare or to trigger some thoughts of your own on settings etc. Sorry I don't have a direct answer.

I've had good success with Art-Net on my FLX. There was some thread a while back about some external tools not picking up the packets. Something to do with polling or broadcast or unicast or something like. I can't find the thread now of course and anyway it might not be relevant... I assume you've been through the relevant manual pages? Here it is before someone more knowledgeable comes along! https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/setup/universes/art-net

These pages do specifically mention FLX, but as Solution runs "the same" ZerOS maybe worth giving them a try. Sorry if you already know about these! https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/shortcuts/keyboard-shortcuts

I would email this to support@zero88.com as they will want to do some diagnostics with you.

You can set the intensity of a fixture then RECORD HOME will allow you to reprogramme the Home or Default values. https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/controlling-fixtures/defaults

You should be able to use the on-desk Fixture Creator to do this (although I never have!). Let me see if I can find a manual reference… https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/patching/add-fixtures/fixture-creator

Hi. Yes, use SHIFT+COPY for a MOVE. See this page in the manual ("MOVING CUES IN A PLAYBACK"): https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/cues-playbacks/moving

I have the same and did query the Copy function on this Forum a few months back. Update with SmartTag on in this instance should be a clean way to prune out the data that is not needed in the cue as a result of the Copy which copies in "blocked" values to achieve the Copy. Edward explained this to me in that thread and the behaviour of Copy does make sense but my inner OCD makes me want to tidy up with the Update step. I'll see if I can link the thread later. Remove is a very specific operation. In your example above you talk about turning off their intensity. In the case of intensity, using Update with SmartTag is the easiest thing to do, and that the intensity is now being recorded at zero, the action of Update with SmartTag will be to prune any other attribute data (colour, position etc) for that fixture. (That is my understanding, @Edward Z88 to correct me if I'm wrong). Remove is a very specific operation that will prune from the recorded data, the specified parameters for that fixture. I often have this scenario when I'm experimenting with my next cue, trying some colours or moving position and then concluding that I didn't actually want to change those fixtures at all. In the case of those changes being in the programmer then I can use the backspace key and CLEAR to purge those changes. However once those changes are committed to a cue with a RECORD operation, then Remove is the mechanism to get the scissors out and to go back and to snip that data out of the cue as if the change was never there in the first place. This is of course different to the situation where I changed the colour but then decided I didn't want the fixture lit when I've recorded a change (to colour) that I can't see (because intensity is off) but has actually entered some data for that fixture in the recorded database. The key thing here is that using Remove to snip out those unintended, or unrequired changes, is that what happened before and what happens next is wholly unaffected, including any impact on Move on Dark. I've probably made a real meal of explaining that above and while I understand the principles and operation I wouldn't claim to be as adept at performing these edit operations on the console as I should be. So your queries do gain my sympathy. Maybe in some of these cases you should be selecting Track Backwards or Track Forwards with these changes. But I would expect if you are doing a Remove operation on cue #n then the tidy-up in that cue should directly benefit cue #(n-1) and cue #(n+1) implicitly because the fixture changes that were not required are now purged from the programme. Again, easy on my part to say this and I confess that I go through the same stressful period as you're conveying. I think that's because we probably don't do these operations very often and are a little apprehensive that they'll have an impact that we didn't expect. Then, because the console doesn't have any real Undo type function (once the command line has been committed), we're in a position where we can't Undo to recover what we had (even though it was "wrong") in order to attempt another approach. So I realise I might not have helped much there. Maybe some words of comfort if nothing else, that you aren't going mad and several aspects also cause similar consternation to other users! I'm not sure if Edward is about at the moment, I'm sure once he frees up, he'll have some calming words for us both on these topics! Kevin

Rob, I'm sure Edward will make this for you. I did check the latest 4.5 library and I couldn't see that "740" type listed in the Ignite section. Regarding the Fixture Request link, it seemed to work ok for me. The page it takes you to, you do have to scroll to the bottom after all of the other options to " Click here to email us with your fixture request". Then I get an email template as follow which sends to the email address "FixtureSupport@Zero88.com" *** REMEMBER TO ATTACH (OR LINK TO) THE FIXTURE'S OFFICIAL MANUAL *** Direct link to Fixture's manual (if not attached): If the fixture has modes, which mode do you require: Which Zero 88 console is this for: What is your ideal required date*: *Although we will endeavour to achieve your ideal required date, we cannot guarantee completion by this date. If you require a quick turnaround, please consider using Fixture Tools to create this personality yourself - available to download, for free, from zero88.com/library *** Fixtures will be created as per the fixture manufacture’s manual and our database syntax. Requests to divert from this will be declined. ***

Off topic. I thought I'd be my usual pain and "stress test" the website. I went to the above link. I went to "VISIT OUR A-Z OF LEGACY PRODUCT MANUALS" I clicked "Entertainment Controls" I selected Product Sub Type=Lighting Consoles, I left Product Type at Entertainment Controls, I left Product Familty at All, I set Status=Discontinued I got "The filter criteria you have selected did not deliver any results" So where are my Frog, Jester, Orb, Solution, Level series, Alcora, Elara, Sirius manuals? Yes I'm sure you could give me a link - that's not the point, why doesn't this search, having followed the route given by the website, yield all of these juicy manuals for discontinued product? Yes I know I'm a PITA, but you've known that for years... 😁

Is there a battery in Solution? That would be my first check if so. CR2032 or similar is typical in Z88 products (at least those from this century!).

Not that I know of. I think this is due to the software needing to detect press-and-release versus press-and-hold so it uses the ‘falling edge’ to detect a press-and-release event. Of course I don’t actually know but this would be a typical approach in software (or hardware) where the button has multiple functions. Does the master go behave like this? Compared to the other playbacks. I rarely use the Go of other playbacks so maybe the master go works on the downward press? Sorry, a little off topic…

I think your settings are correct for what you want to do. Hopefully @Edward Z88 will confirm!

Recent example. The respondent has replied to my post quoting a Vari-lite page but still hasn't recognised in respect of the OP being suggested an "FLX-24" that FLX-S range is NOT discontinued as he continues to assert ambiguously. What's worse is kitlane is a UK operator and posts on Blue Room too. To be frank this is partly down to Zero88 continuing to use unclear/subtly similar product names for quite different products. (I won't mention "Leap Frog"!).

Note to Z88 folks ( @Edward Z88, @Jon Hole ) and other active members: It seems on other forums, misinformation is being spread that suggests or states (incorrectly) that all FLX - including FLX S- production has been stopped. Prospective buyers are being dissuaded from FLX S series consoles because they are "discontinued". I'm rebuffing this where I can, including a link to Jon's original statement at the top of this thread. Please be aware of this misinformation being propagated and do your bit to correct the statements where required.

No I wouldn’t switch off SmartTag. The only time SmartTag is a ‘pain’ is when needing to record ‘Effect Off’ going into a blackout. Unless you are a hyper-advanced user, or creating lots of overlayable busking playbacks, SmartTag will be your friend (so I’m not sure it creates ‘more problems than it solves’). What SmartTag does is stop you worrying about what fixture attributes are tagged in order to get them recorded into a cue, there isn’t anything really to ‘understand’ about it. If you turn it off, then you need to be on top of your game with what you want recording. If what you observe is truly a desk issue then @Edward Z88 needs to be able to reproduce it. I’ve never seen anything like this though in 9 years of having my FLX.