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Trained on FLX
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About kgallen

  • Birthday July 28

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    Gloucestershire, UK
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    Alcora, Alphapack, Betapack, LineBacker, FatFrog, FLX

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  1. Almost certainly comes down to what has been recorded when you programmed the playback. Have a look into SmartTag - will record channels which changed since the last state, other channels will track I.e. keep doing what they were doing before). For the chase, have a look into triggering and releasing playbacks with macros from another cue stack, is that maybe what you're after? I'll try to dig out some links to other Forum posts that cover this better and Edit this post in a minute. When Edward comes on line later he'll give you a full and complete explanation much better than me! Hope some of these help: http://support.zero88.com/Consoles/FLX/1014413041/RGB-Colour-Mixing-on-faders-FLX-Series.htm http://support.zero88.com/Legacy-Products/Legacy-Consoles/Legacy-ZerOS/ORB-XF/1014189311/What-is-Tagging.htm http://support.zero88.com/Legacy-Products/Legacy-Consoles/Legacy-ZerOS/ORB-XF/1011587771/How-do-I-manually-Release-a-Playback.htm
  2. That is true of "newer" ACT6s however early Strand equipment (including ACT6 models from the 1980s to early 1990's) had a fixed 0 to -10V control signal. This requires an "inversion" circuit to change the 0 to +10V to 0 to -10V control voltage. This link discusses such a circuit for Strand dimmers using 0 to -10V control voltage, if you are capable of some straightforward low-voltage electronics construction: http://sound.whsites.net/project90.htm (You need the lower circuit example to go from +10V signalling from the desk to the -10V signalling required by the ACT6 dimmer). Also regards the pinout of the DIN8, Zero88 and Strand use the same pinout - pins 1-6 are channels 1-6, pin 7 is a desk supply (output on a dimmer, input on a desk), and pin 8 is 0V/GND. Don't connect pin 7 unless you know it's the correct voltage for the desk. For example Betapacks output +20V (switchable to -20V) but the ACT6 may output -15V which would be useful to power your inverter circuit above. Pulsar (and Zero88/Strand) pinout here: https://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=27209&view=findpost&p=228788 Kevin
  3. Hi mmoleiro, The Fixture Tools contain a utility, "Common Fixture Manager". Are you using that to select fixture definitions and write the cft file? This utility allows you to select 20 fixture type and write a cft file which you load into the Frog. See the "Load CFT" section on page 6-12 of the manual. The CFT Manager utility I think is installed as part of the Fixture Library Tools. Kevin Manuals on this page (English, German, French): http://support.zero88.com/Legacy-Products/Legacy-Consoles/Frog-Series/975242041/Frog-Series-Overview-Software.htm
  4. Hi jb, I think your initial question is eluding to a "switch profile" for the dimmer... However I think you need to reconsider your overall proposal. A fog machine has a heater that needs constant power and usually takes a minute or two to heat up to where the fogger would work. Any control mechanism for the generation of fog needs to control the pump which forces the fog liquid over the already-hot heater element. I would also advise against using a triac dimmer for any item of equipment that expects a mains supply within the specification of that from the normal distribution network. Triac dimmers should only be used for loads that are specifically suitable for dimming - in this case, incandescent lighting loads. The dimmer example you give will have a mode setting that makes the dimmer behave in a switch on/off way, with a DMX threshold around 50%. However the guidance on using for suitable loads still exists. Where your equipment can be mains on-off switched you should use a DMX-controlled switch pack that uses relays rather than triacs, like the Showtec RP-405 (https://www.thomann.de/gb/showtec_rp_405_mkii_relay_pack.htm). I use such a switch pack for turning on and off mirror ball (motors) for example. Hope that helps. Kevin
  5. ...it's like the dance the UK PM did on entrance to her Party Conference. Don't forget the hip wiggle... (bleughhh).
  6. The manual, p34, says "If the LCD Backlight or Contrast have been set to unreadable values, you will need to connect a monitor to be able to navigate to this menu and set readable values.". It seems your only other option is to know the menu structure and be able to navigate to the required menu item blind. I don't have a Jester - Edward might be able to supply the "footsteps" you need to navigate blind from a cold desk start... https://eaton.nanorep.co/storage/nr1/kb/2AD62C9/3879A76B/3A205D35/22/Jester Manual 3.4.pdf
  7. kgallen

    Beam & Shape Lockup

    Yes it's normal... for now. The Shape button is provided for future use with a new fixture library format which requires separate "Beam" and "Shape" attributes. Pressing "Shape" used to display a message "Coming Soon..." but Zero88 seemed to get a lot of stick from the user-base for this so they just made the Beam and Shape buttons act as a locked pair. In some future software release, Shape will have it's own functionality. For now, don't worry about it, just press the Beam button - and yes, both Beam and Shape LEDs will light.
  8. kgallen

    ZerOS 7.9.5

    Nico, I think you're going to be waiting a little longer:
  9. The "old style" approach before desks had MOD functionality is to have a "mark" cue (usually a point-5 cue number) between existing cues, to reposition the fixture. For MOD to work on ZerOS, the fixture needs to have a programmed intensity=0 in a cue in which the move will happen.
  10. I've no idea how this is set up on the Jester, but essentially what has happened, is when you programmed for the smoke machine, you also captured the data for the MACs into the submaster. This means that when you raise the sub for the smoke machine, the MACs are moving to whatever state they were when you set up for programming the sub for the smoke. This is normal LTP (Latest Takes Precedence) rules. This is also why the results don't change until another memory or submaster is played. When lowered, the submaster needs to be set to "release". Sorry I don't know how to do this on the Jester, but maybe with this info you can hit the manual until Edward comes along to answer... Kevin
  11. Pete, Go back to the beginning - start with an empty playback. Set some levels. RECORD. Set some new levels. RECORD. Set some other levels. RECORD. You should end up with a cue list of 3 cues. Each should show a time in the fade columns - the 3.0s default time. If you go to cue 1 and press GO, you should be able to step with GO through the 3 cues in the stack and each should fade with the default fade time of 3s you say you have.You should see the intensity values ramping up/down in the outputs window. Compare this to the cue stack you recorded at the start of this thread - seems that your cues did not record a change in level/brightness/intensity when you recorded each cue, hence the fade columns not having any numbers in. You will see the same in the colour/beamshape/position columns for those fixtures that didn't have a change in these respective attributes. Kevin
  12. No intensity changes recorded in those cues.
  13. Hi Carpo, I recently had some queries on what various effects did and how I might achieve some particular effects using the engine. In this thread here from around about the post linked, Edward gives some insight and examples to my queries that might be of interest. Kevin
  14. This is usually an issue with the channel faders reference voltage, or maybe the DIP switches on the channel boards if you've been rummaging around inside. I'm sure there are some posts on here or on the BlueRoom. I'll have a dig around... Give Keith a ring at Zero88, he'll have you sorted in a jiffy... (Mods: This post could do with being moved to the Frog Range MkI forum). Kevin
  15. This confirms my total bemusement at the WING pricing. I can buy from CTS, now, walkup, an S24 for £880+VAT. If I want a WING for my full FLX then suppliers are quoting between £850+VAT to over £1000+VAT. So I can buy a full humdinger of a lighting desk with an integrated touchscreen and a quad ARM CPU - who's left hand half is the hardware of a WING, for less than... a WING - which is essentially a bunch of faders and buttons with a USB lead. I'm just glad I don't need a WING... 😣 (And I'm not knocking the Z88 brand - I own more Z88 kit than is frankly healthy, so I'm probably firmly in the "fan-boy" camp...)
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