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Hello Edward All looks good. Many thanks for your reply.

Hi @Speedy Welcome to the forum. To record custom Home, Default, or Max Level values, you will need to ensure that “SmartTag” is disabled in the record options. If your custom Max Level values are not currently how you want them, first tap DELETE > HOME > Max Level. Then double tap CLEAR, and set the fixtures you need to your desired maximum level. Then press and hold RECORD, and in the Record Options that open on the touchscreen, ensure SmartTag has a blue stripe, meaning disabled. If it has a red stripe, tap to disable. Then tap the HOME key, and then choose Max Level. Now only the lights you adjusted will be given a Max Level. I hope this helps.

Hello, on my FLX I will set a Max Level or Topset for the Itensity of only one art of Fixture. In the manual they say, I can edit a single fixture or an group. It will not work :D If I set the itensity of one fixture and select it. Then I press REC, HOME and then "Max Level".Now not only for this fixture is set the Max Level, ALL Fixtures are limitet... What do I wrong? Thanks for your help!

Hi Benjamin, If these errors appear, and the console is switched off and on again, the console will usually reboot into the previously installed version. However as your console has booted into ZerOS 7.14.3, this confirms the software installation completed successfully. The installer must have encountered an issue right at the end whilst it was wrapping things up. The only thing I’d check is going into Setup > Add Fixtures, to check the fixture library is installed. If it is, then you can ignore those errors. Edward

Hello I've just upgraded an S48 to the latest version (I did an S24 just prior with no issues) and as it was finishing I received the error messages "Unable to move system files", "Upgrade failed" and "The upgrade failed during a critical phase of the process, the software installation may be corrupt." I then restarted the desk as requested, updated the co-processor and restarted again. Everything looks fine, the Software version is 7.14.3. Do I carry on as normal or should I be worried? Kind Regards Benjamin

Hi! Thanks for the schematic. Your plan seems appropriate. Yes Filter 1 and Filter 2 should be large (maybe 2" diameter or more) wire-wound inductors (you should find small versions inside a domestic thyristor dimmer). The diac I mention is part of the opto-isolator, IC4, IC5. They are probably socketed. Given these are two-channel modules I would trace back on them comparing channel-for-channel as you go. Also confirm the indicated waveform at the TP and the negative pulse output on pin 1 of IC2 as you propose. If both of the channels of an output board are suspected then check same circuit points on a known good board. This should be relatively easy to debug by doing channel-by-channel compare and identify if the issue is in the common control section IC1,2,3 and associated passives especially capacitors and diodes, or on the output side, IC4,5, D15-18. The LEDs L1,2,3 should also give you some info, so again compare channel to channel. Preheat is R11. I compared with a Betapack 2 schematic and it's largely an identical circuit. Also make sure switches like S3, S4 aren't incorrectly set or oxidised. They look like channel test buttons. I'm not sure what S2 is for - it looks like a jumper from the PCB layout. Check these are all in the same position, especially on channels that are showing different behaviour. I'm not familiar with the 0-4.3mA current drive signal, I've not come across this before. Probably R28,29,30 are not fitted if it's not supported. IC2 is there for other circuit uses (it's a quad op-amp, as is IC3). Kevin ps I found a manual here if of any use: https://www.theatrecrafts.com/archive/documents/Rack-660-Manual.pdf

Hello Kevin, Thanks for reply again. I included the circuit diagram which I found in a Rackmaster 660 service manual, but interestingly this print also lists model 260. However, AFAIK the 260 cannot run on a 0-4.3 mA input signal, so may I assume that components related to this input are left out? The inductor you referred to is probably shown as filter in this diagram. Correct? Studying simple household dimmer circuits I do not find these coils. In the diagram I cannot find an adjustable component related to the pre-heat function. Am I overlooking something? Next Saturday we will take one or more unit apart and do some measurement. I suggest checking the multi-exchanger's 0-10V output as a starting point, the TP test point, the point between IC2 and C8 (at least the diagram shows what to expect here), the diac's LED, its input and output. It could well be that the 6 units are too tight in the rack so that components suffered from the heat. I also suspect the units haven't been opened since the start of their operation, so we expect to find a lot of dust. I let you know the outcome. Sape zero88_rackmaster_schema.pdf

Thank you for emailing the photo of the console's serial number. We will be in touch.

Hi, thanks for the fast answer! Which of the numbers is the Serial number 😅? Edit: Nevermind, I think I got it.

Hi @Niels-Oliver Harfst Welcome to the forum. Thank you for your description of the issue. The first thing to look at would be the internal touchscreen ribbon cable that plugs into the processor. This intermittent behavior could suggest the touchscreen is not connected correctly. Please email a photo of your console's serial number to support@zero88.com, and we can then confirm whether the console is in warranty. If it is out of warranty, we can provide instructions on how to open the console. FLX S24 does not have an external monitor output. Please let us know if you have any questions.

Hello, I have the following problem with my FLXS24, which I purchased in 2021. After the console worked for a previous Revue performance, the screen failed to start the next day, while the console otherwise functions normally. The faders and fader lamps work, as does the digital interface via the iPad apps. The day after, the screen intermittently worked again, so I reset the console to factory settings and installed the latest software update. However, when I tried to use it again a few days later, the screen failed to work again. After a restart and some time without power, everything functioned normally for a short period, then there was a white screen for a few seconds, and the screen shut off completely again. The rest of the console continued to work normally. Is it possible to connect the console to an external regular monitor without a working screen, or do you have any other ideas? Thank you in advance for your help!

This should be a helpful one to watch... Setup > Clear Options > Clear All will clear all programming, but leave all of your settings and patch. Setup > Clear Options > Reset Desk will clear the patch and most settings, but will leave any network protocols enabled and configured. Often the best option is load the "Setup Only", of a show file where you know the settings are how you'd like them... ZerOS Show Files - ZerOS | Zero 88 Please let me know if you have any questions.

No, not tried that. I’ll give it a go. thanks.

Have you tried: Setup+Playback->Set Fader To: Colour

Hi, I have an FLX S24. For a music gig, I’ve got certain fixtures set to a particular colour and saved to a playback. I’ve then got the same fixtures set to another colour on another playback. When I introduce the 2nd playback, I get a sudden jump to the new colour. The intention is to be able to cross fade manually from one colour to the other without a visible colour jump. ive watched Ed’s excellent Playback mixing video, and sort of understand why it’s jumping, but not sure how to avoid it. many suggestions? ta. also a quickie…. How do I clear the desk of everything except the patching, to start a new show? I normally just continue with deleting playbacks and renaming the show, but I may have some settings which need restoring too.

The triac will trigger part way through the sine wave so effectively the first part of the rise is cut off. The output inductor controls the rise time of this potentially sharp switch-on. This assumes the triggering circuit, and the diac in-line with the triac gate are functioning correctly. So I wouldn't rule out the control side just yet, particularly with so many channels looking bad. If a one-off channel was bad then I'd immediately suspect the diac, triac or inductor. Multiple channels looking bad in similar ways points more likely to a common problem rather than faults of the same type in the discrete components of multiple independent output stages. Probing this is dangerous because of the mains voltages, but where competence and safety allows I would take a look at the inputs to the diacs on each channel and compare good and bad channels. Then I would work backwards to the opto-isolator and then onto the low voltage side of the control circuit. Unless you think there are several different faults you don't need to debug on all 36 channels, just take a Rackmaster which has a good and a bad channel and compare step by step back from the diac. If you can upload the relevant page(s) of the schematic here that would be useful to give more specific guidance. Let us know. Regards, Kevin

Dear kgallen, Thanks for your reply. Reading your comments, I checked my measurement notes. Due to time constraints we could not test all 36 channels. On one unit, signals from 1/2 were nice, 3/4 and 5/6 were weird. However on two other units, 3 was nice while 4 was weird and 5 was nice while 6 was weird. So these results do not clearly point the finger to the control side. From what I learned about dimmers is that the triac cuts away a part of the sinus. The remainder should still match more or less the original AC sinus. And that is clearly not the case. Just found a circuit diagram for Rackmaster 260/660. Needs a little closer investigation. It'll take a while, but I'll certainly come back on this topic.

Bonjour, Si vous avez enregistré des positions sur un fader de lecture, vous constaterez peut-être que les appareils se déplacent vers leur position lorsque vous augmentez le fader de lecture. Pour éviter de voir ce mouvement, maintenez SETUP et appuyez sur le bouton de votre lecture pour ouvrir les paramètres de lecture. Ici, définissez la « Fonction du bouton » sur « Go (Snap) », plutôt que sur Flash. Cliquez ensuite sur OK. Maintenant, vous pouvez appuyer sur le bouton de lecture pour préparer les appareils, puis augmenter le fader de lecture pour activer l'intensité. J'espère que ça aide. Hello, If you have recorded positions onto a playback fader, you may find you see the fixtures moving to their position upon raising the playback fader. To avoid seeing this movement, hold SETUP and tap your playback's button, to open the playback's settings. In here, set the "Button Function" to "Go (Snap)", rather than flash. Then click OK. Now, you can tap the playback's button to prepare the fixtures, and then raise the playback's fader to turn on the intensity. I hope this helps.

Bonjour, J'aimerais créer des effets sur sub master avec des lyres mobile, mais je ne voudrais pas voir les mouvements, il faudrait que la lumière arrive directement là où je le souhaite sans le déplacement sur la Scène. Et je n'arrive toujours pas à le faire pouvez-vous me donner un marche à suivre ? Merci

Interesting. I have no answer other than cogitation wondering if this is an issue on the control side - in which case probably this would probably manifest on pairs of channels (1/2, 3/4, 5/6), or the output inductor which controls the rate of current change and hence the rise and fall times. However since they are "simply" a coil of wire, are very reliable, don't deteriorate in value over time like caps do (yes, the enamel could deteriorate), and would manifest on one channel, not across a range of channels. It's with questions like this that we'll really miss Keith and Ian... I hope you get an answer or with further debug identify what the issue is. I'm interested in the answer either way.

Just read this topic with great interest. As a volunteer technician in our theater we have a similar problem. If we control 4 identical lights simultaneously, their intensity differs considerably at partial load. We have 6 Rackmasters 260 connected to a Showtec Multi-exchanger and a number of halogen lights ranging from 500 to 2000W per channel. I haven´t tried to adjust the preheat, that will definitely be a next step. The reason of my response: last week we analyzed the output with an oscilloscope and found weird curves. At 50% DMX signal many channels had no output at all. We hope/expect to improve this with preheat adjustment. At 75% we actually saw two different patterns: one decent,typical, leading edge dimmer curve, and another one jumping up and down to high peaks with a peak-to-peak voltage of 915V, considerably higher than about 615V from the power supply. The 100% curve was more or less as expected. My question: what could be the reason for this different behavior @75%? Could it be dried up capacitors mentioned in the latest response? A few comments: In all cases we used the same 1000W lamp. For safety reasons, the oscilloscope signal was connected via a voltage divider consisting of 3x 10k resistors so you have to multiply the voltages in attached images by 3. We haven´t opened a unit yet, that will also be a next step. Your reply is highly appreciated.

Hi @delicolor support@zero88.com is still valid and comes through to me and the rest of the team. I’ve been on holiday without access to my emails. I’m back next week.

I sent something to Support@zero88.com on Wednesday and didn't hear anything back. Has it changed or is it a domain hiccup?

So what steps have you tried to debug this and what did you find? What outputs are you using from the desk - just DMX or something more advanced like ArtNet or sACN? Have you connected any of the DMX lights directly to the desk to confirm operation of the light? Have you shortened your DMX network to determine if there are any cable faults? Has anyone else had access to the console and might have changed the patch? Have you confirmed the patch has the lights in your rig patched and they are at the right DMX address? Did you update firmware on any item of equipment in your network?

Heads ar powered ON, yesterday they responded in correct way- today they cant connect to the console probably. DK where to search for issue. Some of lights btw are somehow connected- 2 dimmer lights and 1 head - others searching for connection