kgallen

It's probably 25 years or more old, so we're glad it still works and you're still using it! 🙂

They are. Any many of us should be able to help you out if you have a query, so post away! Kevin

Cool! Good luck, I hope you like it! 🙂

Please don't double post. I've answered to your post in the Solution XL forum.

User Manual is here: https://www.zero88.com/storage/downloads/c08f6d38-8d53-4f22-8b22-9de894643a52/Lightmaster-XL-Manual.pdf Maybe your desk is giving the error codes shown on Page 25? However it doesn't seem to be giving any of the "Hardware Problems" codes, so not all is lost! Maybe a Super User Reset is needed (see Page 16) to restore the desk since the internal non-volatile memory has become corrupted since the desk hasn't been used for so long ("All these problems are likely to be transitory. They may require a Super User Clear Memory and/or Reset operation and some reprogramming.") Any other questions, please use the above Forum for Light Master XL and please don't double-post, you won't get a faster answer and you'll just annoy others trying to help you... https://zero88.com/forum/forum/83-other-discontinued-products/ If you get nowhere fault finding this, it might be worth emailing Keith Rogers who will be able to help you more (chance is he even built your desk!): keith.rogers@signify.com

On this page: https://www.zero88.com/control/flxs Under this section: Features (both consoles) It has: Channels patchable across 64 Universes In the manual: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/patching/available-channels It says: On all ZerOS consoles, including FLX, FLX S24 & FLX S48, ZerOS allows fixtures to be patched across 64 universes without wasting unused channels. Any two of these universes can be sent out over the two DMX outputs. The total number of used channels across the 64 universes must not exceed the number of universes your console is licensed to output. So you should be good to go... If you try to patch a new fixture are you able to assign the channels to Universe 2 and then assign Universe 2 to say the 3-pin XLR?

Hi Delfine, Inhibit was covered in one of the recent training sessions with Edward. I can’t remember which one but maybe the below will help.

That should be the case. Actually 512 channels anywhere across 64 universes (I believe FLX S had ArtNert/sACN too).

I wonder if Programmer Time affects the release time. Probably not.

Jester 12/24 doesn’t have any concept of a complex fixture. You have 24 DMX channels to use across those fixtures plus any others you have so you can’t run them all independently in 9 channel mode as that would require 27 DMX channels. Either choose a lower channel count mode on the fixtures or use the same DMX start address on two or more.

Disable release on lower 🙂

+1 for me too.

Here we go (in the Closed Fixture Editor forum): "For the long name, use the Fixture's model followed by a space, then colon, then another space, and then the Mode name. If no specific Mode name then just put the channel count.For the short name, type in as longer name as you can including the mode information within the character limit!"

Yes it's the colon. Let me see if I can find the Fixture Editor document (and if it mentions this!). ETA: The Documentation is a pdf in here. I don't see it mentioning the colon though: https://www.zero88.com/storage/downloads/c77be706-29ab-4c26-85dc-ad29ca324f37/Zero-88-Fixture-Tools-2.6.zip I'll have a dig back through some Forum questions as I've asked several questions in the past on "defacto" standards for fixtures... well I would, but of course the Fixtures sub-forum has been closed...

External monitor is the same as the internal touchscreen. You are using FLX S48? I don't know about Z monitor (I don't use it), sorry!

No. You only see the detail lines for fixtures selected in the programmer. And by "detail lines" I mean the lines in orange on the first image with "[1] CARO", "[2] CARO", "[3] SAM" and "[4] MAT" in them. If you're in the state of the first image, then click fixture buttons 1,2,3,4 you will see those "detail lines" disappear.

On the first image, fixtures 1-24 are selected in the programmer - see the orange box around them. Hence the fixture detail shown. In the second image, no fixtures are selected in the programmer.

Been asked lots. Nah.

Even if Z88 can give you the speed-to-BPM figure, this is going to remain an issue for you, that the resolution of 100 steps will be too coarse to match the music BPM sufficiently accurately and you will still see drift as your music track progresses (assuming it's longer than a handful of seconds). I wonder if there is even a fixed relationship between effect speed and BPM or if it depends on the base waveform of the effect. Maybe Edward is away asking the software team right now!

Sorry Edward I was a bit too quick (the email just popped up!). Your answer is much preferred 🙂 (much better touchy-feely!!!). Sorry Ceri, yes indeed, welcome! Sorry my initial response wasn't intended to come across frosty! (Ooops!). Regards, Kevin ps Edward - am I wrong about Phantom ZerOS in this context? (Yes I know I should probably know!!! 😛 )

Well you can't! Not physically anyway. You can plug one touch monitor in to the console with DVI-D plus USB. You can run "any number" of ZerOS Monitor apps on things like iPads. Also I think you can link "any number" of PCs running Phantom ZerOS. These will both need you to establish some kind of ethernet wired or wireless network to connect the ZerOS Monitor/Phantom ZerOS clients.

However you've done the strobe you need to set it to "release" when you unlatch the strobe. This will mean whatever is controlling the PARs will take over again - in your case the red/blue. I use the "full" FLX and often set one of the UDKs to be a strobe that I trigger manually when needed. The UDK is set the "release" the channels when the button is released. In your case on FLX S I guess you're using a standard playback. If you Setup+Playback button and configure release-on-lower (which I thought was the default anyway), then when you drop the fader (or release the button if that is what you've configured) your strobe should go off and your red/blue chase should take over again. Relevant section of the manual: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/cues-playbacks/playback-settings/raise-and-lower

Indeed 😉 and cost... It is a real pain. That's great if your current LED lamps are behaving ok. Just beware when you need to replace them (because we all know they don't actually last for the claimed number of hours) then the replacements might not be so well behaved. If you are able to choose a branded type (e.g. Philips) then it's worth making a note of the model that seem to behave in your particular scenario. That doesn't of course mean that model will continue to be available in even a few months time. Such is the world we now live in... Good luck!

Hi, Yes, it's called "preheat" and is a feature that allows halogen lamps to dim up smoothly from 0% - and conveniently also helps with avoiding thermal shock (the "bulb damage" you refer to). Dimming LEDs with a conventional leading edge dimmer is a complex discussion and results are very dependent on the LED fixture. The issue with LED fixtures is they contain some active electronics which needs current to operate. Trying to dim a "d0mestic" or similarly constructed LED lamp often gives disappointing results with dimming because of the electronics in the LED lamp housing. You will probably find the LED lamps flicker at low dimming percentages and will probably snap on/off ungracefully around 10-20%. You dimmer has "houselights" scribbled on it. Maybe your venue have blindly removed the halogen lamps and plugged in LED lamps as a direct replacement. In which case you've come across the all too familiar situation, that whatever their purported green credentials, I'm afraid LED lamps are not a direct plug in replacement for such applications... If you want nicely dimmable LED houselights then you're potentially up for a wholesale redesign of your houselight installation. To answer your original question, on the Betapack1, the preheat current is set on some potentiometers behind the back cover. Removing the back cover should only be done with the power to the dimmer isolated. See the manual here: https://www.zero88.com/storage/downloads/8970adda-b944-4fa8-b13b-8339d25f7571/Betapack-1-Manual.pdf See page 2 left column and diagrams on page 3 - in your case "Hardwired" version.

Fantastic, thanks for the update! Have you managed to source a new PSU?