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kgallen

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Posts posted by kgallen

  1. OK this is 10 years old comment, but this is where Jon told me the association of dimmer has to be within the fixture. I think at the time I was trying to do something vaguely similar to you where I had a patched Source 4 and wanted to associate the scroller with it to support move on dark.

     

  2. The scroller uses the intensity channel of the associated fixture to know when ‘dark’ (as I’m sure you’re well aware). Scroller probably only has colour attributes. 

    You might have to patch the lamp+scroller and patch the ‘lamp’ to an unused DMX address then use that bogus lamp fixture intensity to control your move on dark. 

    I think early days of my FLX I asked a similar type of question and it just came down to you need that linked intensity channel to support move on dark.

    I know you probably don’t have time or access but this is a candidate for having a play to see what methods can be used to fool the desk whilst maintaining a usable workflow. I don’t think anyone left here knows how the desk actually uses the fixture information under lamp+scroller to know what cheats are viable.  

  3. 8 hours ago, Davidmk said:

    @Sol That seems a nice idea but ye "Cannae change the laws of physics" (or LTP).

    If you did then everything else would break.

    @kgallen @Archie D Opinions on that?

    I think it would have to be a ‘built in’ effect. The key to this as identified at the start is the ‘release’ instruction the desk needs. I’m not sure even user macros on FLX can make this any easier. Some sort of ‘auto release’ would be needed. 

  4. I’ve read with interest what @Davidmk has written. I agree the key to this will be fixture Release to get back to your background colour. 

    However I can’t as yet think of a neat generic way to do this. All I can think of at present is you will need a set of playbacks equalling the number of ‘white’ lights you want to overlay. Each of these playbacks will light one of those lights. Each has 2 cues. The first cue lights the light and releases the previous playback in the sequence. The second cue triggers the next playback. This ‘next’ playback has the two cues as above, the release being for that first playback. Repeat playbacks like this for each sequence light.

    You could have a ‘master’ playback that triggers the first playback in the sequence and a second cue that releases all of the sequence playbacks. 

    This is not readily expandable and quite clunky to implement. Also changing the speed will require exiting the cue times on each playback. Yuk.

    Possibly you could have a master playback that triggers and releases each sequence playback, that would probably make time editing far easier and all the sequence playbacks need to do is light the light.

    As yet I can’t think of a better way. At least on FLX/S there are no real shortage of playbacks and the sequence playbacks could be buried on a later page.

    We’ll all keep having a think as this is fundamentally not unusual as a requirement. 
     

  5. Had a quick peruse of the manual. Didn’t see anything about auto-go but I could have missed it. 

    Other option which I’d probably use on my Alcora (Jester predecessor) would be to programme your snap lights onto a sub master and also into your fade cue. At the cue point press and hold the flash button for the sub master and press GO. After the fade up time of the fade cue, HTP will hold your snap lights on and you can release the flash button.

  6. I doubt you could do this directly, you can’t on an FLX and that is a much more advanced console. I don’t know Jester so happy to be told I’m wrong.

    Can Jester do auto follow cues?

    I’d do the snap as the first cue then auto-go to a next cue that does the fade cue. That’s how I’d do it on Frog which is much closer to Jester in functionality. If no auto-go then a quick finger on GO is what you’re left with  

    (On FLX we’d have other option like triggering other playbacks but I think the above would still be simplest to programme and maintain).
     

    Good luck!

    Kevin

  7. The manual page 51 says the DMX input port performs a merge into the DMX output. See also page 20 item 4. So if you patch to different addresses it seems like this should work after cabling the DMX output of one Jester into the DMX input of the other.

    So have a read of the manual, and more importantly, try it out.

    https://www.vari-lite.com/b-dam/vari-lite/discontinued-products/jester/english/jester-manual-3-4.pdf

    Note: All our friends from Zero88 are gone and no one from Vari-lite has any interest in their current consoles let alone legacy ones they had no involvement with. So unfortunately we’re ’flying solo’ now. So us users (or non-users in my case with Jester) is all there is now. If you find out that you can (or indeed if you can’t) chain Jesters like this to expand your controllable channel count, it would be good if you’d take the time to document your findings here, to help other users.

    Good luck with your show.  

  8. For analogue audio cables, the impedance is not really an issue because the signal frequencies involved are very low. 
     

    For digital signals the edge rate is very important and the capacitance of the cable has a big effect on this. Even for DMX at 250kbit/s the required frequency components can be well into the megahertz. Analogue audio cables of any appreciable length as can be found in DMX runs will severely attenuate the high frequencies required to convey a digital signal properly. 
     

    For a digital signal like DMX, the cable acts like a ‘transmission line’ (Google that). That’s why we use terminators.  

  9. An ohmmeter won’t help you. The cables don’t have a different dc resistance they have a different ac impedance. 
     

    The most practical way to tell is from markings on the sheath of the cable that will tell you it’s ’DMX’ or ‘digital’ cable maybe. If it says ‘microphone cable’ it’s not really for DMX use.

    You can use ‘DMX cable’ for microphones but ideally not ‘microphone cable’ for DMX.

    (My response coincided with David’s posting, I’ll read that now!).

    • Like 1
  10. 3 hours ago, paulcobb said:

    I noticed in a relatively recent post that someone mentioned (at the time) that they had some original fat frog power supplies (5537500) on the shelf.

    You were possibly referring to a post on here or the Blue Room by our good friend Ian Knight @iank99. Unfortunately Ian is no longer with us and I don't know what happened to what would have been an extensive stock of new and used Zero88 spare parts. If anyone reading this knows if that stock was salvaged and can be purchased, then it would be useful to make this community aware.

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